- -•« v. 



^LOWl 




ff 





HOW TO 

E AND DRIVE 

A HORSE. 

CONTAINING 

A Complete Treatise on the "iforsV 

DESCRIBING THE 

MOST USEFUL HORSES 

FOR BUSINESS, 

AND 

THE BEST HOESES FOR THE ROAD. 

ALSO GIVING 

INSTEUCTIONS IN BEEMING, BIDING 
AND DEIVING HOESES. 



A Valuable and Instructive Book. 



New Yoke; 

i 



FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 
H and 36 Noeth Moore Stbeet. 



E&Vupfcd according to Act of Congress, in the year 1885, by 

FRANK TOUSEY, 
:n the Offlce of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 



ri 



1 
1 



HOW TO 

Break, Ride and Drive a Horse 



THE RIDING HORSE AND ITS ACCOUTERMENTS. 

The horse used for riding, commonly called "a hack," is 
of a somewhat different description from either the hunter or 
the race-horse. Neither is the ordinary hack precisely like 
that called "the covert-hack." Many thoroughbred race- 
horses turn out good hacks, and some hunters also are active 
enough to answer the same purpose; but, generally speak- 
ing, this is not the case, and neither the one nor the other 
would come under the description of the " perfect hack. " 
The most obvious distinction in hacks is between park-hacks 
and road-hacks ; the former requiring only a line form with 
showy action, while the latter are selected for their service- 
able qualities, and must be capable of doing a distance in 
good time, with ease to themselves and comfort to their 
riders. 

The Park- Hack is generally what is called by the horse- 
dealers a " flat-catcher," that is to say, he is a showy horse, 
with an appearance which will catch the eye, but really 
worthless, from some deficiency of constitution or infirmity 
of legs. There are every year some scores of useless brute3 
turned out of the racing stables with legs which will not 
stand a preparation, in consequence of their tendency to in- 
flame and become sore . Now, these horses are often unfit for 
the hunting-field from defective hocks, or from some peculi- 
arity of temper which prevents their taking to jump. They 
are often " well topped " — that is, well formed about the head, 
neck, and body, and, to the inexperienced eye, are very tak- 
ing. They also often have high action, and sometimes par- 
ticularly so, for the higher it is, the more likely to occasion in- 
flammation of the legs. These animals are put by, cooled 
down, and blistered, and are then brought out as showy 
hacks, for the use of gentlemen who merely require a short 
constitutional airing every fine day of an hour or an hour 
and a half, and, as fine days do not average above four a 
week, mo3t horses even of the most infirm legs can accom- 
plish that amount of work, if ridden quietly oner hard 
ground. Many such animals are exhibited daily in Central 



4 HOW TO BBEAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

Park, where the ground exactly suits them; but there are 
others there also of the most perfect description, capable of 
standing as much work as any butcher's pony. Neverthe- 
less, it must be admitted that the great majority of our mod- 
ern good-looking hacks are incapable of doing as much 
work over hard ground as the coarser-bred and more com- 
mon-looking brute in use among the butchers and general 
dealers who attend country fairs from long distances. 

Eastern blood is a great advantage in most respects, and 
no doubt when the animal possessing it is sound, he will bear 
the shocks of the road with impunity; but there is no ques- 
tion in my mind that he fails in the matter of enduring daily 
concussion on the road, and that a Welsh pony or Norman 
horse will stand nearly twice the amount of road- work with- 
out showing its effects. This is the weak point in the breed, 
partly arising from original want of size in the bone and 
joints, but chiefly, I imagine, from the constant use of stal- 
lions for inferior stock, which have themselves suffered from 
inflammation of the legs and its consequences; hence, in 
process of time, a breed of horses is formed which is more 
than naturally delicate about the legs, because they have 
really been selected from that defect, though only from neces- 
sity, and not from choice. 

My reason for thinking that the Arab blood is not neces- 
sarily iuclined to produce inflammatory joints is, that in their 
native country they are peculiarly free from them, although 
used for long distances, and that in this country those which 
are bred from modern Arabs are sound in their limbs, though 
otherwise unfit for the purpose for which they were bred. 
Safeguard, who is descended from the Wellesley Grey Ara- 
bian, has got most of his stock with particularly wiry legs; 
and I have had one of them which would stand any amount 
of battering without mischief, besides knowing others of the 
same character in other hands. 

Hence I am led to conclude that the cause is not inherent 
in the blood, but is accidentally introduced by the use of re- 
jected sftallions for farmer's purposes. These get good-look- 
ing colts, which fetch high prices, and therefore suit the 
breeder's purpose just as well as the sounder horse, who 
would, perhaps, cost twice as much for his services. The 
breeder seldom tries the legs much, and it is only when put 
to work that the weakness is discovered, which to the eye is 
not by any means perceptible. From a long experience in 
my own case, and in that of others, I am convinced that legi 
cannot be selected by the appearance or feel. I do not mean 
to say that out of forty horses the twenty with the best-looking 
legs will not beat the others, but that it is impossible for any 
judge, however good, to pronounce with anything like cer- 



HOW TO BREAK, RTDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 5 

tainty whether a certain leg will stand or not, without know- 
ing anything of the possessor of it. In so many instances 
have I seen a well-formed leg go to pieces directly, and a bad 
one stand, that I can only come to the conclusion that no 
certain opinion can be formed from a mere inspection. This 
is a great source of loss 'to the dealer, who buys his horses 
after a long rest, and with the legs looking fine and sound; 
for even the necessary "showing out " will make many give 
way, and lameness ensue of a character which will not war- 
rant a " return," yet sufficient to prevent a profitable sale. A 
horse sore from work is cooled down, physicked, and put into 
a loose box; he is then blistered, and kept without more than 
quiet exercise till he is to be sold, and by that time his legs 
are as fine as the day he was foaled. 

Now, I defy any one, however skillful, to detect the inhe- 
rent weakness; but there it is, and on the first week's severe 
work the inflammation returns as bad as ever. The park- 
hack, not requiring legs to stand severe work, his place is 
well filled by any horse of good temper, safe, and showy ac- 
tion, and of elegant form. Good temper is necessary, be- 
cause as these horses are not worked hard, they speedily be- 
come unmanageable if they are naturally of a vicious disposi- 
tion. Work will quiet almost any horse; but in order to 
have a horse pleasant to ride at all times, whether fresh or 
stale, he must be of a very tractable temper indeed. Many 
horses which will come out of the stable, when fresh, in a 
state of fiery and hot impatience, rearing and kicking like 
mad animals, will, when in good work, be as quiet as don- 
keys; and hence it is not always wise to reject one showing 
these qualities, nor yet is it prudent for a bad horseman to 
mount one without previous riding, although he may in his 
usual state be quiet enough. 

There are two bodily qualities which every hack should 
possess — first, a good shoulder; and, secondly, a free use of 
the hind-quarter. It is of no use for the fore-leg to be well 
raised and thrust forward, unless this action is well support- 
ed by the hind-leg. No hack is so unpleasant as the one 
which lifts his foot and puts it down again nearly in the same 
place. Here the defect is in the hind-quarter, which does 
not propel the body as the leg is lifted, and the consequence 
is the action I have noticed, in which the progress, though 
with a great deal of bustle, is not more than six miles an 
hour. "At the same time, too long a stride, either in the 
walk, trot or gallop, is not pleasant; and the horse which 
has a moderately short, quick action will in most cases be 
preferred. All this, as in the case of the legs, cannot be 
surely prognosticated from the shape; and hence the dealer 
who has a good mover will always say to his customer, find 



6 HOW TO BREAK, RTDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

ing fault with the looks of a horse in the stable, "See him 
out, sir, and you will like him;" and such is often the case. 
The worst-looking horse in the stable is not only the best, 
but the best-looking out, being quite a different animal in 
action. In fact, every trial should be obtained before pur- 
chase, for it is not until the rider has actually mounted that 
the good or bad qualities, in point of comfort, are fully de- 
veloped. 

Some people pretend to be able to pick a hack out by the 
eye alone, but though in large numbers they may succeed 
tolerably well, yet in many cases they will be wofully de- 
ceived. The feet should always be good, and with plenty of 
horn; flat soles do not bear the road, nor do contracted 
heels, and there is no horse which requires such perfectly 
formed feet as this. The hunter or race-horse may be used 
when he could not get along at all on the road, but the hack 
must be sound in this part, or he will be crippled on the first 
piece of hard ground. In height the park-hack usually ranges 
from 14 to 151-2 hands; rarely, however, being much above 15 
hands. ' 

The Road-Hack may or may not be good-looking, but he 
must be able to walk, trot, and gallop in a most unexcep- 
tionable manner. The walk should, as in the park-hack, be 
safe and pleasant, the fore-foot well lifted, and deposited on 
its heel, with a clean action of the hind-leg, by which it es- 
capes "knuckling over " from being put down too soon, or 
" overreaching " from the opposite extreme. Five miles an 
hour is the outside walking pace of a good hack, and though 
some will do considerably more, it is seldom by anything but 
a kind of shuffle, which is not pleasant to the rider, nor 
elegant to the spectator. The trot should be of that charac- 
ter that it may be brought down to eight miles an hour, or 
extended to fourteen ; and this is the perfection of the pace, 
for few horses can do both well, being either too close to the 
ground in the former for safety, or too set and lofty in their 
action for the latter. 

No defect is worse than the unsafe action, which results 
from a weakness of the extensor muscles of the arm, and in 
which the action is pretty good as long as the horse is not 
tired, but after a few miles the leg is not lifted with power 
enough, and the toe is constantly striking against some 
inequality of the ground, from which it is not recovered. 
This marks the defect: for it must not be confounded with 
habitual stumbling, which is as likely to occur at starting as 
at any other time, and which is always easily detected by 
watching the mode of putting down the foot in the naturally 
unsafe trotter, where the toe touches the ground first, and 
the heel then follows, as is evidenced by the state of the tip 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 7 

of the shoe. Here a trip may occur often, and yet no fall 
occur, because the extensors are strong, and effect a recovery 
after the mischief has been nearly done. But when the ex- 
tensors are weak, the toe, which has been well raised at first, 
after a few miles touches the ground, and not being rapidly 
recovered, a fall ensues of the most severe character. For 
this reason it is necessary to ride a horse some distance be- 
fore his action can be pronounced upon, and only then can 
it be said that he is fit for a timid or bad rider. It is, I am 
sure, the height of absurdity to recommend this or that shape 
as being necessary. Hacks go in all shapes, and though 
oblique shoulders may be desirable, yet many a good hack is 
without them. Action is the sine qua non, united to stout- 
ness, temper, and soundness both of wind and limb, as well 
as of the eyes. A horse with a thick loaded shoulder often 
makes a good hack, while a very thin one is seldom fit for 
long journeys. One point about the shoulder is very desir- 
able — namely, the proper development of the broad part of 
the blade, without which there is nothing to hold back the 
saddle, and the rider is far too much over his horse's neck. 

The gallop in this kind of riding horse is not so important 
as the trot and walk, but it should be true — that is to say, it 
should be as high before as behind ; for, in default of this 
proper balance between the fore and hind quarter, the amount 
of fatigue is greatly increased. But as, in the present state 
of .our roads, the gallop ought not to be persisted in for 
many miles, so it is of less consequence than the trot, which 
is, or should be, the regular pace on hard ground. The can- 
ter is not much used by gentlemen, being more fit for ladies, 
as it rapidly wears out the leading leg when much weight is 
carried. A cantering hack, therefore, is not much sought 
after for any but ladies' service. The hard gallop is usually 
about fifteen or sixteen miles an hour, and the sides of the 
road should always be selected. 

In the mode of Procuring there is little choice, few peo- 
ple who use hacks having the opportunity of breeding them ; 
nor if they had the necessary land, etc., would they find it 
answer. 

The hack is a mongrel animal, and can seldom be bred 
with certainty, because, as now used, he is an exceptional 
case, being nothing but an accidentally small hunter or race- 
horse. Hence, if a hack-mare is bred from, with the inten- 
tion of rearing a hack, the chances are that she produces an 
animal as high as her mother, who was probably a slapping- 
huntress. 

Our hacks are now all bred from the thoroughbred horse, 
crossed with some harness or hunting mare, generally the 
latter; and, as these are now of blood consisting almost en- 



8 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

tirely of that of the thoroughbred horse, the hack is even 
more pure than his dam; but still a mongrel, and often with 
a cross of Welsh or Norman blood, which renders him hardy, 
but still more mongrel or impure. 

Purchase, therefore, is the only mode open to the intended 
horseman, and there are plenty of dealers throughout the 
kingdom where these animals may be procured, independently 
of the numerous fairs held in our provincial towns. A re- 
spectable dealer's stable is the best mart, and far better than a 
fair, where no good trial can be had ; and the horse being 
made up for a particular time can be more easily made to 
take in a customer. In the dealer's stable no notice is given, 
and be cannot be always prepared for deception. Besides, it 
is much more difficult to detect unsoundness of the eyes in the 
open air than at the stable-door, and many lame horses also 
are rendered for the time quite sound by constantly keeping 
them going up and down a fair. Spavins are particularly 
likely to be passed over in this way, as well as broken wind, 
which may be to a certain extent made up by artificial means. 

But hacks at the hammer is a complete lottery, for they 
may be very unpleasant to ride, although with all the appear- 
ance of going smoothly and safely. Harness horses may be 
bought with far more certainty in this way, but those which 
I am now considering require such very perfect action, that 
they cannot be calculated on except by a trial in the saddle. 
Neither can the mouth be examined with reference to the bit, 
although the age can be ascertained with tolerable precision. 
A tender mouth is a great advantage, and its opposite as 
great a nuisance; yet this cannot be discovered in this mode 
of dealing, and therefore I should advise its adoption with 
great reluctance. 

THE ACCOUTERMENTS AND AIDS 

Required are a saddle, bridle, and a whip or stick ; the 
latter should be either a straight whip like that used in rac- 
ing, or a common short walking-stick, or a short cane with a 
handle, sold for the purpose. 

Spurs are not commonly used in hacking unless the horse 
is sluggish, but some are never to be depended upon with- 
out this stimulus. They are sometimes so indolent as to 
stumble at every few yards without the 3pur, but on the 
slightest touch they are all alive, ana their action changes in 
a moment. With such animals the spur should always be 
worn, though it need seldom be used, 

MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING. 

The directions for these, the preliminary feats of horse- 
manship, are generally given as if all horses were of moder- 
ate height, and all men six feet in their 3tockings. 



Stand opposite the near fore-foot of the horse, place the left 
hand on the neck near to the withers, having the back of the 
hand to the horse's head, and the reins lying in front of the 
hand. 

Take up the reins with the right hand, put the little finger 
ol the left hand between them, and draw them through until 
you feel the mouth of the horse; turn the remainder of the 
reins along the inside of the left hand, let it fall over the fore- 
finger on the oh" side, and place the thumb upon the reins. 

Twist a lock of the mane round the thumb or forefinger, 
and close the hand firmly upon the reins. 

Take the stirrup in the right hand, and place the left toe 
in it as far as the ball ; let the knee press against the flap of 
the saddle, to prevent the point of the toe from irritating the 
sido of the horse ; seize the cantle of the saddle with the right 
hand, and springing up from the right toe, throw the right 
leg clear over the horse, coming gently into the saddle by 
staying the weight of the body with the right hand resting on 
the right side of the pommel of the saddle; put the right toe 
in the stirrup. 

Now ibis is in the main applicable to a man of five feet ten 
inches, or six feet, but to a shorter individual attempting to 
mount a horse of fifteen hands, three inches, it is an impossi- 
bility, simply because he cannot reach the cantle from the 
same position which enables him to hold the stirrup in the 
left hand. This is also wrong, in my opinion, in 
directing that the body should be raised into the saddle 
directly from the ground, with one movement. This will al- 
ways bring the rider down into the saddle with a very awk- 
ward jerk ; and the proper direction is to raise the body 
straight up till both feet are on a level with the stirrup-iron, 
and then with the left leg held against the flap of the saddle 
by the left hand on the pommel, the right .lag is easily thrown 
over the cantle, and the body may be kept in the first posi- 
tion until the horse is quiet, if he is plunging or rearing. A 
short man can generally place his foot in the stirrup while 
held in his hand, but it should be known that all cannot do 
this, because I have seen young riders much vexed at finding 
that they could not possibly do what is directed. 

Most of our writers on horsemanship are of the military 
school, and endeavor to cut every one's cloth by their own 
coats. They are able to do certain things easily, and so are 
their men, because they are mostly of the height already 
specified ; but as sportsmen and civil equestrians are of all 
heights, I shall endeavor to accommodate my remarks to all 
heights and classes. 

In all cases the. rider should stand at the shoulder, though 
with a short man it is much easier to mount a tall horse from 



10 HOW TO BREAK, RTDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

the hind-quarter, but the danger of kicking is very great; 
and even in mouuting with a "leg," in the jockey style, I 
have known the thigh very nearly broken by a kick. ■ 

If the hand can steady the stirrup it should do so, but if 
the person is too short, it can be placed in the stirrup with- 
out its aid; then taking the reins between the lingers, much 
as directed in the passage already quoted, and grasping a 
lock of the mane with the finger and thumb, the body is 
raised till the right foot is brought to a level with the left, 
when the right hand seizes the cantle, and with the left 
grasping the pommel, the body is steadied for a short time, 
which, in the ordinary mount, is almost imperceptible, but 
in a fidgety horse is sometimes of considerable length. The 
leg is now thrown gently over the saddle, and as it reaches 
the hand the latter is withdrawn, after which the body sinks 
into the saddle in an easy and graceful manner. The right 
foot is then placed in the stirrup, with or without the aid of 
the right hand holding it. 

Dismounting is effected by first bringing the horse to a 
stand-still; then shorten the left hand on the|reins till it lies 
on the withers, with a steady feel of the mouth, twist a lock 
of the mane on the finger, and hold it with the reins; bearing 
also on the pommel with the heel of the hand. Next, throw 
the right foot out of the stirrup, and lift the body, steadied 
by the left hand, and borne by the left foot, until it is raised 
out of the saddle; throw gently the right leg over the cantle, 
and as it passes it grasp this part with the right hand; then 
lower the body gently to the grouud by the aid of the two 
hands and the left foot; or, if it is a very short person and a 
tall horse, by raising the body out of the stirrup on the 
hands, and dropping to the ground by their aid alone. 

Mounting without Stirrups, while the horse is standing 
still, is effected as follows : 

The rider stands opposite the saddle and takes hold of botli 
the pommel and :he cantle, keeping the reina in the left 
hand at the same time, and in the same manner as in ordi- 
nary mounting. 

Now spring strongly from the ground, and by means of 
the spring, aided by the arms, raise the body above the sad- 
dle; then twist the leg over, while the right hand is shifted 
to the right side of the pommel, and by means of both the 
hands the body is steadied into the saddle. 

Mounting without Stirrups may, by very active men, be 
effected while the horse is going on, much in the same way 
as is seen constantly in the circus. 

The rider runs by the side of the horse, laying hold of the 
pommel of the saddle with both hands strongly, and allowing 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 11 

him to drag him along for two or three very long steps, h e 
suddenly springs from the ground and is drawn into th® 
saddle. 

This feat is seldom achieved by the ordinary equestrian, 
but it is easier than it looks, and in riding to hounds is some- 
times of great service with a fidgety horse. 

Dismounting without Stirrups requires the horse to be 
brought to a stand-still; then, holding the reins in the left 
hand, both are placed upon the pommel, and by their aid 
alone the body is raised out of the saddle. The right log is 
now thrown over the cantle, and in doing so the right hand 
seizes it, and with the left lowers the body to the ground. 

Mounting and Dismounting on the off side merely require 
all the movements to be reversed, and, reading left for right 
and right for left, all the directions previously given are ap- 
plicable. 

It is very useful sometimes to be able to effect this, as some 
horses with defective eyes will more readily allow mounting 
on the off side than on the left. 

MANAGEMENT OP THE SEAT AND REINS. 

The Seat is the first thing to be settled, and it should al- 
ways be fixed before anything else is done — that is, as soon 
as the body is placed in the saddle. 

There are four things necessary to be attended to— first, 
the position of the weight, so as to be sufficiently forward in 
the saddle ; secondly, the fixing of the knees on the padded 
part of the flap; thirdly, the proper length and position of 
the stirrups ; ana fourthly, the carriage of the body. 

The weight of the body should be well forward, because 
the center of motion is close to the middle of the saddle; 
and as the weight is chiefly thrown upon the breech, if the 
seat is far back it is not in that part, but near the cantle that 
it is placed. But by sitting well forward the weight is dis- 
tributed between the breech, thighs, and feet; and the horse 
is able to rise and fall in his gallop without disturbing his 
rider. The knees must be well forward to effect this seat, 
and also well in front of the stirrup-leathers; for if they are 
placed behind them the body is thrown too far back and the 
hold is insecure. 

The object of all young riders should be to get as far for- 
ward as possible, so that the kuee is not off' the saddle; and 
they can scarcely overdo this part of the lesson by any effort 
in their power. Riding well upon the fork, with the knees 
upon the padded part of the flap, will insure a good position 
if the stirrups are not too short. These should be about the 
length which will touch the projecting ankle-bone when the 
legs are placed as above directed! but out of the stirrups ; and 



12 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

when they are placed in them, the heel should be about one 
inch and a half below the ball of the foot. This latter part re- 
ceives the pressure of the stirrup in road-riding, but in hunting, 
or any other kind of field-riding, the foot is thrust " home," 
and the stirrup touches the instep, while the pressure is taken 
by the under part of the arch of the foot. The reason of 
this is, that in leaping, the pressure on the stirrup is almost 
lost; and if the toe only is placed within it, the foot is con- 
stantly coming out. Besides this, in the gallop, the attitude 
is of that nature that the spring of the instep is not wanted, 
the weight being too much thrown upon the foot, if stand- 
ing in the stirrups; and if sitting down in the saddle, the 
feet should scarcely press upon the stirrups at all, and there- 
fore the best place for them is where they will be most secure. 
The body should be carried easily, balancing backward and 
forward or sideways, as required, but not forcibly. Instinct 
is here the best guide, and the rider should follow its precepts 
rather than attempt to adopt any preconceived rule. If the 
horse rears, he will feel called upon by nature to lean forward, 
and may even grasp the neck if needful, or anything but the 
bridle, which will only bring the horse back upon him. 
The body should not be held stiffly upright, but, short of this, 
it can scarcely be too still, the loins being slightly arched 
forward. The legs also should be as motionless as possible, 
and nearly perpendicular from the knee downwards; but, if 
anything, a little forward, the heel being well depressed, and 
the toes very slightly turned outwards. The shoulders should 
always be square— that is, at right angles to the road taken ; 
and, whether trotting or galloping, neither of them should be 
advanced before the other. 

The Reins are to be taken up as soon as the seat is settled, 
and during that operation, with a young horseman, the horse 
should be held quiet by the groom, who'stands on the oft" side 
with both the snaffle-reins in his right baud; or, if the horse 
is very fidgety, he may stand in front of him, with a snaffle- 
rein in each hand; and this almost always keeps quiet any 
but a thoroughly vicious horse. The groom should also hold 
the right stirrup for the rider to place his foot in. In gather- 
ing the reins up they are first raised by the right hand, and 
then placed in the left. 

The Single Rein is held by placing all' but the forefiuger 
between the reins, and then turning them over that finger to- 
ward the off side, they are held firmly between it and the 
thumb. By this mode the hand has only to be opened, and 
the ends of the rein may be laid hold of by the right hand, to 
enable the left to shorten its grasp. When the hand is thus 
closed upon the rein, the thumb should be pointed to tho 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 13 

horse's ears, the little finger near upon the pommel of the 
saddle, and the elbow close to the side, which last is a neces- 
sary consequence of the above position of the hand ; so that 
the equestrian has only to look to his part, and see that the 
thumb points to the ears, with the little finger down on the 
pommel, and he mav be quite sure that his elbow is right. 

With the single rein the management of the mouth is easy 
enough- nevertheless, there are various directions for the 
purpose adopted in different schools, which are dependent 
upon altogether conflicting principles. Every tyro knows 
that the horse turns to the left by pulling the left rein, and 
to the right by pulling the opposite one; and the problem to 
be solved is, to do this by one hand only. Now this in the 
single rein is easily effected bv raising the thumb toward the 
rio-ht shoulder, when the right rein is to be pulled, or by 
drawing the little finger toward the fork for the left; in both 
cases by a turn of the wrist without lifting the whole hand. 

But over and above thi3 action on the mouth, and 
in many cases independent of it, is a movement which, in 
trained horses, is capable of much greater delicacy, and which 
depends upon the sensibility of the skin of the neck for its 
due performance. It is effected by turning the whole hand 
to the right or left without any wrist action, so as to press the 
rio-ht rein against the neck, in order to cause a turn to the 
left, and the left rein against the neck, for the opposite pur- 
pose; at the same time rather slackening the reins, so as not 
to bear upon the mouth by so doing. In this way a horse 
may be " cantered round a cabbage-leaf," as the dealers say, 
with a much greater degree of nicety and smoothness than by 
acting on the corner of his mouth. But highly broken horses, 
such as the military troop-horses, are often too much used to 
their bits to answer to this slight and delicate manipulation. 

I am well aware that some horses can never be taught it, 
but must always have the bearing on the mouth before they 
will turn; yet when it can be taught, it makes the animal 
so tractable and agreeable to ride that it is a highly desirable 
accomplishment; audi cannot, therefore, join in condemn- 
ing its use, but should rejoice if it could in all cases be fully 
developed. • • 

The Double-Rein is held in two ways, but the be3t, m my 
opiuion, is as follows: 

First take up the snaffle-rein, and place it as before, except 
that the left rein is to be between the riug and middle mi- 
ners; then raise the curb-rein, and hook it on to the little 
finger where it may be either left for use when wanted, or at 
once drawn over the forefinger to the proper degree of tight- 
ness, and pressed down upon it by the thumb; in which case 
the reins should all fall over the off side of the horse. By this 



14 HOW TO BREAK, EIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

mode the curb -rein is always at the command of the right 
hand, and it may be shortened or let out in a moment, which 
is of constant occurrence in every day's ride, The hand is 
held as before, with the thumb pointing to the horse's ears ; 
in turning, however, there is much less power of bearing on 
either side of the bit by raising the thumb or lowering the lit- 
tle finger, because the distance between the snaffle-reins is 
only half what it was, and therefore the mode of turning by 
pressure upor the neck is doubly desirable; and hence its 
constant adoption in all cases where doubled-reined bridles 
are used, as in the field and on the road. 

Sometimes, to obviate this objection, the snaffle-reins are 
placed as in the single-reined bridle, outside the little finger, 
and then the curb is hooked over the ring-finger, between the 
snaffle-reins, so as to allow of the full manipulation of the 
mouth by the hand, without bearing upon the neck. 

But the objection to this is that the curb cannot be shorten- 
ed without releasing the snaffle, and therefore the horse must 
either be ridden on the curb alone, while this process is be- 
ing effected, or his head must be loosed altogether, whereas 
in the other mode his mouth is still under the control of the 
snaffle all the time that the curb is being let out or taken in. 

THE ORDINARY PACES. 

The Walk is a perfectly natural pace to the horse, but it is 
somewhat altered by use, being quicker and smarter than be- 
fore breaking, and with the hind-legs more brought under the 
body in the perfect hack. 

In this pace the head should not be too much confined, and 
yet the rider should not entirely leave it uncontrolled : the 
finest possible touch is enough, so that on any trip the hand 
is at once informed of it by the drop of the head, when by a 
sudden jerk of the bridle, not too forcible, it rouses the horse 
and prevents his falling. It is not that he is kept up by pull- 
ing the rein, but that he is roused by it and made to exert 
himself, for many horses seem regardless of falls, and would 
be down twenty times a-day if they were not stimulated by 
the heel and bit. Confinement of the head in the walk is 
absolutely injurious, and more frequently causes a fall than 
saves one. 

A good walker will go on nodding his head to each step, 
more or less as it is a long or a short one; and if this nod- 
ding is prevented by the heavy hand of the rider, the fore-foot 
is not properly stretched forward, the step is crippled, and 
very often the toe strikes the ground ; when if the head were 
at liberty, it would clear it well. In horses which are apt to 
stumble on the walk, I have generally found that a loose 
rein, with the curb held ready for a check, is the safest plan; 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. If) 

and then the horse soon finds that he is punished the moment 
he stumbles, and in a very short time he learns to recover 
himself almost before he is reminded. I do not like the spur 
or the whip so well because the use of either makes the horse 
spring forward, aud often blunder again in his hurry to avoid 
this Kind of punishment. The check of the curb, on the other 
hand, makes him recover himself without extra progress, or 
rather by partially stopping him, and thus he is better able to 
avoid his fall. The body is allowed to yield slightly to the 
motions of the horse, but not to waddle from side to side, as 
is sometimes seen. 

Some horses do not stir the rider at all, while others throw 
him about and fatigue him greatly; and this may generally 
be foretold when the tail sways much from side to side in 
the walk, which is caused by the over-long stride of the horse, 
a very desirable accomplishment in the race-horse or hunter, 
but not in the nack. 

The Trot is altogether an acquired pace, and in the natu- 
ral state it is never seen for more than a few yards at a time. 
In it the fore and hind-legs of opposite sides move together, 
and are taken up and put down exactly at the same moment. 

To Start a Horse in the Trot, take hold of both the reins 
of the snaffle, and bear firmly, but steadily, upon the mouth, 
lean slightly forward in the saddle, press the legs against the 
horse's sides, and use the peculiar click of the tongue, which 
serves as an encouragement to the horse on all occasions. If 
properly broken, he will now fail at once into the trot, but if 
he breaks into a canter or gallop he must be checked, and 
restrained into a walk or a very slow trot, called a "jog- 
trot." 

In some cases a horse can canter as slow as he walks, and 
here there i3 often great difficulty in making him trot, for no 
restraint short of a total halt will prevent the canter. In 
such cases, laying hold of an ear will often succeed, by mak- 
ing the animal drop his head, which movement interferes 
with the canter, and generally leads to a trot. 

Rising in the Stirrups with the trot is generally prac- 
ticed in civil life, as being far less fatiguing to both horse and 
rider, but in the military schools the opposite style is inculca- 
ted, because among a troop of horse it has a very bad effect 
when a number of men are bobbing up and down, out of all 
time. If it were possible for all to rise together, perhaps 
the ofleuse against military precision might be pardoned; but 
as horses will not all step together, so the men cannot all 
rise at the same moment, and the consequence is that they 
are doomed to bump upon the sheep-skins in a very tiresome 
manner, fatiguing alike to man and horse. 



10 HOW TO BREAK, RTDE AND DRTVE A HORSE. 

The civilian's mode is as follows: At the precise moment 
when the hind and fore-legs are making their effort to throw 
the horse forward in progression, the body of the rider is 
thrown forcibly into the air, in some horses to so great an 
extent as to make a young rider feel as if he never should 
come down again. After reaching the utmost height, how- 
ever, the body falls, and reaches the saddle just in time to 
catch the next effort, and so on as long as the trot lasts. In 
this way the horse absolutely carries no weight at all during 
half his time, and the action and reaction are of such a nat- 
ure that the trot is accelerated rather than retarded by the 
weight. No horse can fairly trot above 12 or 13 miles au 
hour without this rising, though he may run or pace it, so 
that it is not only to save the rider's bones, but also to ease 
the horse, that this practice has been introduced, and has 
held its ground in spite of the want of military sanction. It 
is here as with the seat, utility is sacrificed to appearances; 
and whenever the long and weak seat of the barrack-yard 
supplants the firm seat of the civilian, I shall expect to see 
the rising in the trot abandoned, but certainly not till 
then. 

The military length is not now what it was thirty years 
ago, and perhaps, some time or other, they may adopt the 
rise, but I am afraid not until they have produced many 
thousands more sore backs than they need have done if they 
had never adopted it. In the trot, the foot should bear 
strongly on the stirrup, with the heel well down, and the 
ball of the foot pressing on the foot-piece of the stirrup, so 
that the elasticity of the ankle takes oft the jar, and prevents 
the double rise, which in some rough horses is very apt to be 
produced. The knees should always be maintained exactly 
in the same place, without that shifting motion which is so 
common with bad riders, and the legs should be held per- 
pendicularly from the knee downward; the chest well for- 
ward, the waist in, and the rise nearly upright, but slightly 
forward, and as easily as can be effected, without effort on 
the part of the rider, and rather restraining than adding to 
the throw of the horse. 

The Military Style, without rising, is effected by leaving 
the body as much as possible to find its own level. The 
knees should not cling to the saddle, the foot should not 
press forcibly on the stirrup, and the hands should not bear 
upon the bridle. 

By attending to these negative directions, the rider has 
only to lean very slightly back from the perpendicular, and 
preserve his balance, when practice will do all the rest. 

The Canter is even more than the trot an unnatural and 
artificial pace. It can very seldom be taught without setting 



l 



HOW TO BREAK. RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 17 

a horse much upoo his haunches, and very rarely, indeed, 
without the use of the curb-rein, It is a pace in which all 
the legs are lifted and set down one after the other in the 
most methodical manner; the near or off fore-leg leading off, 
as the case may be, but one foot being always in contact with 
the ground. 

To Start the Canter with either Leg, it is necessary 
to pull the opposite rein, and press the opposite heel. 

The reason of this is obvious enough; every horse in start- 
ing to canter (and many even in the canter itself), turns him- 
self slightly across his line of progress, in order to enable 
him to lead with that leg which he thereby advances. Thus, 
supposing a horse is going to lead off with the off fore-leg, he 
turns hiS' head to the left and his croup to the right, and then 
easily gets his off-leg before, and his near leg behind into the 
line which is being taken. Now, to compel him to repeat 
this action, it i3 only necessary to turn him in the same way, 
by pulling his head to the left, and by touching him with the 
left heel, after which he is made to canter by exciting him 
with the voice or whip, while at the same moment he is re- 
strained by the curb. When once this lead is commenced, 
the hold on the curb and pressure on the legs may be quite 
equal; but if, while the canter is maintained, it is desired to 
change the leading leg, the horse must be collected and 
roused by the bit and voice, and then, reversing the pull of 
the reins and the leg-pressure from that previously practiced, 
so as to turn the horse in the opposite way to that in which 
he was started, he will generally be compelled to change his 
lead, which is called "changing his leg." 

The Seat for the Canter is a very easy one, the knees 
taking a very gentle hold of the saddle, the feet not bearing 
strongly upon the stirrups, and the body tolerably upright in 
the saddle. 

The hands must not be too low in this pace, but should 
keep a very gentle but constant pressure upon the bit, and 
should, if there is the slightest tendency to drop the canter, 
rouse the mouth by a very slight reminder, and also stimulate 
the fears by the voice or whip. 

The Gallop is the most natural of all paces, being seen 
in all horses while at liberty, from the Shetland and dray- 
horse to the pure-bred race-horse. It is a succession of leaps, 
and differs from the canter in one important feature, which 
separates the one pace from the other. In the description of 
the latter pace I have said that one foot is always in contact 
with the ground ; while in the gallop, whether fast or slow, 
there is always an interval in which the whole animal is sus- 
pended in the air, without touching the ground. Hence, 



18 HOW TO BREAK, RTDE AND DRTYE A HORSE. 

it is Dot true that the canter is a slow gallop, nor is the 
gallop a fast canter; but the two are totally distinct paces, 
as different as walking and running iu the human subject. 
There is, however, the same variation in the leading leg, and 
the same mode of compelling the lead of one particular leg, 
as well as of causing the change of lead, though it is much 
more difficult to effect these objects in the faster pace than in 
the slower one. 

The Proper Seat in the Gallop is either to sit down in 
the saddle or to stand in the stirrups, according to circum- 
stances. The former is the usual seat, and it is only in rac- 
ing or in the very fast gallop at other times that the latter is 
adopted. In sitting down, the feet may be either resting on 
the ball of the toe, as in the other paces, or with the stirrup 
" home " to the boot, as is common in all field-riding. The 
body is thrown easily and slightly back, the knees take firm 
hold, the rider being careful not to grip so tight as to dis- 
tress the horse, which fault I have known very muscular men 
often commit. The hands should be low, with sufficient pull 
at the mouth to restrain him, but to annoy and make him 
" fight;" and if he is inclined to get his head down too much, 
or the reverse, they mu3t be raised or lowered accordingly. 
When the standing in the stirrups is to be practiced, the 
weight is thrown upon them, steadying it with the knees, 
which should keep firm hold of the saddle-flaps. The seat of 
the body is carried well back, while at the same time the 
loin is thrown forward; but by this combined action the 
weight is not hanging over the shoulder of the horse, as it 
would be, and often is, when the breech is raised from the 
saddle and brought almost over the pommel, with the 
eyes of the rider looking down his horse's forehead, or very 
nearly so. 

If a jockey with a good seat is watched, it will be seen that 
his leg does not descend straight from the knee, but that it is 
slightly thrown back from that Jine, and consequentl}' that 
his center of gravity is behind it, so that he can, by stiffen- 
ing the joint, carry his body as far behind it a3 his stirrup is, 
without ceasing to stand "in it. This seat cannot long be 
maintained without fatigue to the rider, and it is only adopted 
in racing or in short gallops over bad ground, a3 in hunting, 
when there is a deep piece of fallow, or a steep hill, or any 
other kind of ground calculated to tire the horse. 

The Varieties of the Gallop are the hand-gallop, the 
three-quarter gallop, and the full-gallop, which is capable of 
still further extension in the "racing setto." They are all, 
however, modifications of the same pace, varying only in the 
velocity with which they are carried out. 



! 



RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 19 



EXTRAORDINARY MOVEMENTS. 



Besides the paces of the horse which are required for his 
use by man, there are also certain movements very common- 
ly met with, but by no means desirable, and others which 
are taught him for man's extraordinary purposes; the former 
are called vices, the latter are more or less the result of the 
manege, or breaking-school. 

The vice3 are— first, stumbling; secondly, cutting and rear- 
ing; thirdly, shying; forthly, kicking; fifthly, plunging; 
sixthly, lying down; seventhly, shouldering; and eighthly, 
running away. The managed actions are backing, passag- 
ing, etc. 

Stumbling is caused by defective muscular action in all 
cases, though there is no doubt that in many horses this defect 
is aggravated by lameness, either of the feet or legs, or from 
defective shoeing. 

Some horses can never be ridden in safety for many miles, 
although they will "show out" with very good action; and 
this is caused by the muscles which raise and extend the leg 
tiring very rapidly; after which the ground is not cleared by 
the toe, and when it is struck there is not power to recover 
from the mistake. Many careless and low goers are . con- 
stantly striking their feet against stones, but having strong 
extensions they draw their feet clear of the obstacle, aud 
easily recover themselves ; while those which are differently 
furnished, although they strike with less force, yet they have 
no power to help themselves, aud therefore they fall. The 
©ne kind may be kept on their legs by constant rousing and 
severity, but the weak ones are never safe. In the stumbling 
from lameness or soreness the most humane course, as well 
as the safest, is either to dismount and lead the horse, or to 
keep him alive by the use of the whip or spur. Humanity, 
taking a middle course by riding quietly, is sure to lick the 
dust, and the plan should never be attempted. 

But there are many kinds of careless stumbling: one arises 
from the toe touching although well thrown over; but the 
knee-action being low, the foot is not cleared. This is not a 
very dangerous kind, and is generally recovered from. The 
nex't is from the foot being put down too far back, aud too 
much on the toe, so that the pastern, instead of settling into 
its proper place behind the perpendicular of the foot, 
"knuckles over" in front, and so causes the leg to lose its 
power of sustaining the weight. Here the horse does not 
generally fall unless the other leg follows suit; but it is a 
very unpleasant accident, and if a horse is liable to it he is 
never to be considered sale. Such animals are very decep- 
tive to the young and inexperienced, because they generally 



20 HOW TO BREAK. RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

lift their knees high, and lead to the supposition that they 
are safe and good goers. But if they are watched they will 
l>e seen to put their feet down behind a perpendicular line, 
drawn from the front of their knees; and when that is the 
case the kind of stumbling here alluded to is always to be 
expected. 

There is also the stumbling from putting the foot on a 
rolling stone, which gives way at the moment of bearing the 
weight, and thus throws the horse off his balance, so as to 
occasion him to make a mistake with the other leg, which 
will be greater or less according to his good or bad action. 
Lastly, there is a stumble resulting from tender soles or 
frogs, in which the feet being placed upon a sharp stone, so 
much pain is occasioned that the knee is allowed to give 
way, and the same effect is produced as in the accident 
caused by a rolling stone, but often in a much more marked 
degree. 

The Remedy For Stumbling will, in all cases, depend 
upon the cause. 

If this is from weakness, no care or good riding will pre- 
vent a stumble, though it may avert an absolute fall by tak- 
ing care to sit well back, and to be on the guard against be- 
ing pulled over the shoulder iu case of a serious mistake. 
There is no use in holding a horse hard in such a case; he 
should be kept alive, but not hurried, because the more tired 
he is the more likely he is to come down. Great judgment, 
therefore, will be necessary to " nurse him " to his journey's 
end; and this will be best done by an occasional relief to his 
back and walking by his side. No one should ride such a 
horse habitually; but if, unfortunately, he finds himself on 
him, and some miles from home, the above is the best course 
to pursue. 

When, however, the stumbling is from decided laziness, 
the only course is to catch hold of the horse's head and use 
the whip or spur, or both, pretty severely. Many horses are 
quite safe at their top speed on the trot, but at a half-trot 
they are never to be trusted. The experienced horseman 
readily detects the exact pace which his horse can do with 
the greatest ease and safety, and keeps him to that. Some 
can trot downhill safely, but are always tripping on level 
ground (these are low-actioned horses with pretty good 
shoulders); others, again, always trip going downhill from 
overshooting themselves, and of course each must be ridden 
accordingly. 

When lameness is the cause of failure, the remedy is either 
to have the shoe taken off and rectified, if that is the cause, 
or If in the joints, ligaments, or sinews, to give rest, and adopt 
the proper remedies. 






i 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 21 

Cutting is caused by the horse touching one leg with the 
other shoe or foot, and it may be either of the ankle or pastern 
joint, or of the inside of fhe leg, or just below the knee, which 
last is called the speed;-, cut. It arises from the legs being 
set on slightly awry, so that the action is not straightfor- 
ward ; and this is aggravated by weakness or want of condi- 
tion, so that a horse often cuts when poor, though he is quite 
free from the vice when high in flesh. The cutting may be 
either of the fore or hind-leg. 

The remedy is either to alter the shoeing, or to apply a 
boot. 

Rearing is a coltish trick, which is generally lost as the 
horse grows older; it is not nearly so common now as it used 
to be, and a bad rearer is not often seen. 

When in an aggravated form it is a frightful vice, and with 
an inexperienced rider may be attended with fatal mischief. 
In slight cases it consists in the horse simply rising a little 
before and then dropping again, as if from play only ; but in 
the worst form it is a systematic attempt to throw the rider,,, 
and sometimes the horse goes so far as to throw himself 
back as well. 

The Remedy for this vice is the martingale, which may 
either be used with rings running on the snaffle-rein, or at- 
tached directly to that bit by the ordinary billet and buckle ; 
or, again, by means of a running-rein, which commences 
from the breast-strap of the martingale, and then running 
through the ring of the snaffle with a pulley-like action, it is 
brought back to the hand, and it may thus be tightened or 
relaxed according to circumstances, so as to bring the 
horse's head absolutely down to his brisket, or, on the other 
hand, to give it entire liberty without dismounting. It is a 
vecy good plan with an experienced horseman, but its use 
should not be attempted by any other. With a determined 
brute nothing short of this last kind will prevent rearing; 
and even it will fail in some cases, for there are some horses 
which rear with their heads between their forelegs. Never- 
theless, happily, they are rare exceptions, and with the 
majority the martingale in some form is efficacious. It 
should never he put on the curb-rein with rearers; and, in- 
deed, a curb is seldom to be used at all with horses addicted 
to that vice; they are always made worse by the slightest 
touch of the bit, and unless they are very much inclined to 
run away, it is far better to trust to a straight bit or plain 
snaffle, which by not irritating the mouth will often induce 
them to go pleasantly, whereas a more severe bit woultt 
tempt them to show their temper by rearing, Breaking a 
bottle of water between the ears, or a severe blow in the 



22 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

same part, may in some cases be tried, but the continued 
use of the martingale will generally suffice. 

There is also a mode of curing rearers, sometimes at- 
tempted, by letting them rise, and '.then slipping off on one 
side and pulling them back; but it' is a dangerous feat for 
both horse and rider, and has often led to a broken back on 
the part of the horse, as well as sometimes to severe injury 
to the rider. 

It is scarcely necessary to remark that the rider should, in 
all cases, lean well forward and relax the bridle while the 
horse is in the air. 

Shying is sometimes the effect of fear, and sometimes of 
vice, and there are many horses which begin by the former 
and end with the latter, inconsequence of mismanagement. 

The young colt is almost always more or less shy, especial- 
ly if he is brought at once from the retired fields where he 
was reared to the streets of a busy town. There are, how- 
ever, numberless varieties of shyers, some being dreadfully 
•planned by one kind of object, which to another is not at all 
formidable. When a horse finds that he gains his object by 
turning round, he will often repeat the turning without cause, 
pretending to be alarmed, and looking out for excuses for it. 
This is not at all uncommon, and with timid riders leads to a 
discontinuance of the ride, by which the horse gains his end 
for the time, and repeats the* trick on the first occasion. In 
genuine shying from fear the eyes are always more or less 
defective, but sometimes this is not the cause, which is 
founded on a general irritability of the nervous system. 
Thus, there are many whbh never shy at meeting wagons, 
or other similar objects, but which almost drop with fear on 
a small bird flying out of a hedge, or any other startling 
sound. These are also worse, because they give no notice, 
whereas the ordinary shyer almost always shows by his ears 
that he is prepared to turn. 

For Shyers the only remedy is to take as little notice as 
possible, to make light of the occurrence, speak encourag- 
ingly, yet rather severely, and to get them by the object some- 
how or other. If needful, the aid of the spur and whip may 
be called in, but not as a punishment. If the horse can be 
urged by the object at which he is shying without the whip or 
spur, so much the better, but if not, he must be compelled to 
do so by their use. Whenever fear is the cause of shying, 
punishment only adds to that fear; but where vice has" sup- 
planted fear, severity should be used to correct it. 

As a general rule the whip need never be used, unless the 
horse turns absolutely round ; and not then unless there is 
reason to suspect that he is pretending fear. If only he will 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 23 

go by the object, even with "a wide berth," as the sailors 
say, he may be suffered to goon his way unpunished; and 
nothing is so bad as the absurd severity which some horse- 
men exercise after the horse has conquered his reluctance, 
and passed the object. At this time he should be praised 
and patted, with all the encouragement which can be given; 
and on no account should he be taught to make those rushes 
which we so commonly see on the road, from the improper 
use of the whip and spur. 

If punishment is necessary at all it must be used before- 
hand; but it often happens that the rider cannot spare his 
whip-hand until the shying is over; and then, in his passion, 
he does not reflect that the time is gone by for its employment. 

Kicking is a very unpleasant vice, either in the saddle or in 
harness, but it is not so dangerous in the former as in the 
latter; its nature is too well known to need description. It 
is often the result of plaji> but quite as frequently it arises 
from a vicious desire to get rid of the rider. 

The Proper Mode of treating a kicker is to catch fast 
hold of the head, and keep it well up, and then to use the 
whip down the shoulder severely. If the head is not well in 
hand he will often kick the more, but if the head is kept up 
while the blow is given, he will generally desist. A gag- 
snaffle is very useful with confirmed kickers, as it serves to 
keep the head up better than any other bit. 

Plunging consists in a series of bounds or springs, by 
which the horse evidently hopes to relieve himself of his bur- 
den. His back is generally rounded, and very often he will 
"buck," or jump off the ground perpendicularly, by which a 
weak rider is sure to be unseated. 

The remedy is to sit still, and keep the head confined, 
though not too closely. Very often plunging is followed by 
a fit of kicking, for which the rider should be prepared. If 
there is reason to expect that a horse will commence this 
trick, a cloth, rolled like a soldier's cloak, and buckled to the 
front of the saddle, is a great assistance, and will often save 
a fall when the seat is not very good. 

Lying Down is a vice which only Welsh ponies, and other 
obstinate brutes, indulge in, and it is seldom met with in En- 
glish-bred horses. The spur will sometimes keep them up, 
but in bad cases there is no remedy but submission. 

Shouldering is also a trick only met with among badly 
bred horses, though sometimes horses of all breeds, if they 
have been badly broken, will adopt this expedient, by at- 
tempting to crush the knee against a wall or paling. If, 
however, the hand and foot are put strongly out, the horse 



24 HOW TO BREAK, RTDE AND DBIVE A HORSE. 

cannot use enough lateral pressure to overcome their resist- 
ance, and no harm is done. 

Running Away is only an extreme form of pulling in the 
gallop, but sometimes it is of a most vicious description, and 
the horse gallops as if maddened by excitement. It is a most 
dangerous vice, as it is generally practiced at times when it 
is most inconvenient, as in crowded thoroughfares, etc. 

For Horses which Run Away, various severe bits have 
been invented, but nothing has ever yet been introduced 
which is so successful as the Bucephalus nose-band. 

It is a good plan in determined brutes to make them gallop 
to a stand -still, by giving them an uphill burster, which may 
generally be managed, though there are some which are only 
made worse by this treatment. Still it generally succeeds, 
and most horses are rendered quiet for some time by such an 
effort. Nevertheless, they generally try again as soon as 
they are fresh, and they are seldom to be trusted with any 
riders but good horsemen. It is of no use to pull dead at 
these animals, but it is better to let them go when there is 
plenty of room, and then to try what a sharp and severe pull 
will do — not keeping it up too long if ineffectual, but loosing 
the mouth again for a time, and "then trying again. Some- 
times, however, there is no room for this, and then the only 
plan is to try and bring the head round, either with a view of 
galloping in a circle, or to run the head against a fence, or 
even a wall or strong gate. Sometimes anything is better 
than a straight course — as, for instance, into a crowded thor- 
oughfare, where there would be an almost positive certainty 
of mischief; and in such a case it is better to do anything 
than to persevere in the course which the runaway is taking. 
Here the horse must be pulled into anything which will stop 
him, such as a thick hedge or a park wall, or any similar in- 
surmountable obstacle; and all risks must be run of damag- 
ing him, or even his rider, who will, however, generally es- 
cape with slight bruises if the horse is run full tilt against 
the object, and not too obliquely, which will not at all an- 
swer the purpose. 

Backing is necessary for all horses to be taught, though not 
so often required iu riding as in harness-horses. It is always 
one of the first things drilled into the colt by his breaker, and 
the finished and broken horse will, as a matter of course, 
readily obey the hand of the rider when he gently draws him 
back. The pull should not be harder than the particular 
mouth requires, some horses being easily irritated by too 
severe a confinement of the mouth. If a horse obstinately 
refuses to stir, the bit may be gently "sawed" from side to 
side, which seldom fails to make him stir. 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 25 

When backing is adopted by the horse with vicious inten- 
tions, and contrary to the will of his master, it is called 
"jibbing," and is a most unmanageable trick, for which the 
best remedy is patience. Punishment never answers, and the 
horse only jibs the more; but by quietly waiting until he is 
tired, the animal will generally give up the fight, and con- 
tinue his progress in the desired direction. 

Passaging is a feat of horsemanship never used in this 
country except in the military schools. It is the action of 
the horse by which he moves sideways, using the two legs of 
each side at a time, and following them up, advancing them 
to the right or left by bringing the other two up to them. 

THE RIDE. 

The Ride is the putting into practice all the directions 
which have already been given. When the orders have been 
issued for a horse to be prepared, he is brought to the door 
ready saddled and bridled. It is the groom's duty to place 
the saddle properly on ; but it is as well that the master should 
know how and where to put it on. 

The common direction is to put the saddle "one hand's- 
breadth behind the shoulder-blade," but this is too far back, 
and few saddles will remain there ; it is far better to place it 
at once where it fits than to give it room to come forward, 
because the girths only become more slack as it shifts, and 
allow it to press still more forward than it otherwise would; 
whereas, if it had been first placed where it soon traveled 
forward, the girths would have kept tight, and it would 
have moved no further. 

A better rule is to place the saddle where it fits, taking- 
care to have it as far back as it ivitt fit. The bridle should be 
put on, with the bit neither too high nor too low in the mouth, 
and with the throat-lash of the proper tightness, which points 
can only be learned from experience. After leaving the stable, 
and if the weather is fine, walking the horse about for a few 
minute§, the girths will generally require tightening, which 
the groom should see to. When the horse is to be mounted, 
the rider, if he cannot fully depend upon his groom, should 
see to his girths, and that his bridle is properly put on, with 
the curb of the right degree of tightness, if he uses a double- 
reined bridle. As soon as this is settled, the groom brings 
the horse up to the door, holding it with the left hand by the 
snaffle-reins, and bearing upon the off stirrup to resist the 
weight if the rider is a heavy man, which will prevent the 
saddle from twisting. The rider then mounts, and puts his 
horse into a walk, which should always be the pace for the 
commencement of a ride for pleasure. He may in this pace, 
as I have already explained, give his horse considerable lib- 



26 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

erty of the head, and he will have no difficulty in turning 
him to the right or left, either by the use of one hand or 
both, or by bearing upon the neck according to the mode to 
which the horse has been broken. After a short distance he 
may practice the various paces, and if he is inclined to learn 
to ride well, he may at times throw the stirrups across the 
saddle, and attempt to canter without them. 

In learning to ride without stirrups, it is a very good plan 
to have the inside of the trousers lined with a strip of black 
leather, in the French fashion, which takes a good grip of 
the saddle ; for with cloth trousers and a smoothly polished 
saddle there is very little hold to be obtained, and the balance 
alone must preserve the seat. With this addition all the 
paces may soon be mastered without the aid of the stirrups; 
but the trot will be the last of necessity, because it is by far 
the most difficult. No rise can now be managed, and the 
body must be suffered to take its chance upon the saddle, 
leaning back to rather more than the perpendicular position, 
and not attempting to do more than keep the balance. When 
riding without stirrups, the feet should be carried in the 
same position as if they were being used, the heel being care- 
fully depressed, and the toes raised by the muscular power 
of the leg. 

FEMALE HORSEMANSHIP. 

The Saddlery for the use of ladies is similar in principle 
to that devoted to the gentlemen's riding, With the exception 
that the bits and reins of the bridle are lighter and more orna- 
mental, and the saddle furnished with crutches for side-rid- 
ing. The reins are narrower than those used by gentlemen, 
but otherwise the same. Until lately they were rounded, 
and the nose-band fringed, but all ornament is now out of 
fashion. 

Tne side-saddle should be carefully fitted to the horse, 
and there should always be a third-crutch, the use of which 
will hereafter be explained. There is an extra leather girth, 
which keeps the flaps of the saddle in their places. The stir- 
rup may either be like a man's, with a lining of leather or 
velvet, or it may be a slipper, which is safer, and also easier 
to the foot. The lady's whip is a light affair; but as her 
horse ought seldom to require punishment, it is carried more 
to threaten, than to give punishment. A spur may be added 
for a lady's use; and for .those who hunt, it is sometimes need- 
ful for the purpose of giving a stimulus at the right moment. If 
used, it is buckled on to the boot, and a small opening is 
made in the habit, with a string attached to the inside, which 
is then tied round the ankls, aud thus keeps the spur always 
projecting beyond the folds of the habit. A nose-martingale 



1 



i 



HOW TO BREAK, RIPE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 2*1 

is generally added for ornament; but no horse which throws 
his head up is fit for a lady's use. 

The Lady's Horse ought to be the most perfect of backs, 
instead of being, as he often is, a useless brute, fit only to be 
shot. 

Many men think that any horse gifted with a neat outline 
will carry a lady, but it is a great mistake; and if the ladies 
themselves had the choice of horses, they would soon decide to 
the contrary. The only thing in their favor in choosing a lady's 
horse is that the weight to be carried is generally light, and 
therefore a horse calculated to carry them is seldom fit to 
mount a man, because the weight of the male sex is gener- 
ally so much above that of an equestrian lady. Few of this 
sex who ride are above 126 pounds, and most are below that 
weight, and a horse which will be well up to 140 pounds, in- 
cluding the saddle, will not be able even to waddle under 
168 pounds or upward. But in point of soundness, action, 
mouth and temper, the lady's hack should be unimpeachable; 
and these are the points that constitute a perfect hack for 
either sex. Again, a gentleman's hack may be good, yet 
wholly unable to canter, and so formed that he cannot be 
taught; he therefore is unsuited to a lady; but, on the other 
hand, every lady's horse should do all his paces well. Many 
ladies, it is true, never trot, but they should not be fur- 
nished with the excuse that they cannot, because their 
horses will not. 

In size, the lady's hor3e should be about fifteen hands, or 
from 14 1-2 to 15 1-2 ; less than this allows the habit to trail 
in the dirt, and more makes the horse too lofty and unwieldy 
for a lady's use. 

In Breaking the Lady's Horse, if he is of good temper 
and fine mouth, little need be done but to make him canter 
easily, and with the right leg foremost. This is necessary, 
because the other leg is uncomfortable to the rider, from her 
side position on the saddle; the breaker, therefore, should 
adopt the means already described, and persevere until the 
horse is quite accustomed to the pace, and habitually starts 
off with the right leg. He should also bend him thoroughly, 
so as to make him canter well on his hind-legs, and not with 
the disunited action which one so often sees. The curb must 
be used for this purpose, but without bearing too strongly 
upon it; the horse must be brought to his paces by fine hand- 
ling rather than by force, and by occasional pressure, which 
he will yield to and play with if allowed, rather than by a dead 
pull. In this way, by taking advantage of every inch yield- 
ed, and yet not going too far the head is gradually brought 
in, and the hind-legs as gradually are thrust forward, so as 



28 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRTVE A HORSE. 

instinctively to steady the mouth, and prevent the pressure 
which is feared. When this " setting on the haunches " is 
accomplished, a horse-cloth may be strapped on tho near 
side of the saddle, to accustom him to the napping of the 
habit; but I have always found, in an ordinarily good-tem- 
pered horse, that if the paces and mouth were all perfect the 
habit is sure to be borne. 

It is a kiud of excuse which gentlemen are too apt to mnke, 
that their horses have never carried a. lady ; but if they will 
carry a gentleman quietly, they will always carry a lady in 
the same style, though that may not perhaps be suitable to 
her seat or bands. 

The Directions for Holding the Reins, and for their use, 
already given, apply equally well to ladies: the only difference 
being that the knee prevents the hand being lowered to the 
pommel of the saddle. This is one reason why the neck re- 
quires to be more bent than for the gentleman's use, because 
if it is straight, or at all ewe-necked, the hands being high, 
raise the head into the air, and make the horse more of a 
" star-gazer " than he otherwise would be. Many ladies hold 
the reins as in driving, the directions for which are given in 
the next chapter. It is in some respects better, because it 
allows the head to be lower than in the gentleman's mode, 
and the ends of the reins fall better over the habit. 

In Mounting, the horse is brought to the door by the 
groom, and held steadily, as for a gentleman's use, taking 
care to keep him well up to the place where the lady stands, 
from which he is very apt to sidle away. The gentleman 
assistant then places his right hand on his right knee, or a 
little below it, and receives the lady's left foot. Previously to 
this, she should have taken the rein in her right hand, which 
is placed on the middle crutch ; then, with her left on she 
gentleman's shoulder, and her foot in his hand, she makes a 
spring from the ground, and immediately stiffens her left 
leg, using his hand, steadied by his knee, as a second founda- 
tion for a spring; and then she is easily lifted to her saddle 
by the hand following and finishing her spring with what 
little force is required. As she rises, the hand still keeps 
hold of the crutch, which throws the body sideways on the 
saddle, and she then lifts her right knee over tiie middle 
crutch. After this she lifts herself up from the saddle, and 
the gentleman draws her habit from under her until smooth; 
he then places her left foot in the stirrup, including with it 
a fold of her habit, and she is finally seated, and should take 
her reins and use them as directed for the gentleman. 

The great mistake which is constantly made in mounting 
is in the use of the lady's knee, which' should be carefully 
straightened the moment it can be effected: for if kept bent 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 20 

il requires great power to lift a lady into the saddle, whereas 
with a good spring and a straight knee she ought to weigh 
bnt a very few pounds in the hand. 

The Lady's Seat is very commonly supposed to be a weak 
one, and to depend entirely upon balance, but this is the 
greatest possible mistake; and there can be no doubt, from 
what is seen in private as well as in the circus, that it re- 
quires as great an effort of the horse to dislodge a good fe- 
male rider as to produce the same effect upon a gentleman. 
Even with the old single crutch there was a good hold with 
the leg, but now that the third is added, the grip is really a 
firm one. When this is not used, the crutch is laid hold of by 
the right leg, and pinched between the calf of the leg and the 
thigh, so as to afford a firm and steady hold for the whole 
body, especially when aided by the stirrup. But this latter 
support merely preserves the balance, and is useful also in 
trotting; it does not at all give a firm, steady seat, though it 
adds to one already obtained by the knee. When two 
crutches are used, the leg is not brought back so far as to 
grasp the crutch as before, but between the two knees the 
two crutches are firmly laid hold of, the upper one being un- 
der the right knee, and the lower one above the left. The 
right knee hooked over the crutch keeps the body from slip- 
ping backward, while the left keeps it from a forward mo- 
tion, and thus the proper position is maintained. 

In all cases the right foot should be kept back, and the 
point of the toe should scarcely be visible. These points 
should be carefully kept in view by all lady riders, and they 
should learn as soon as possible to steady themselves by this 
grasp of the crutches, without reference to the stirrup-iron. 
In spite of her side-seat, the body should be square to the 
front, with the elbow easily bent, and preserved in its proper 
position by the same precaution. 

The whip is generally held in the right hand, with the lash 
pointing forward, and toward the left, and by this position it 
may be used on any part of the horse's body, by reaching 
over to the left, and cutting before or behind the saddle, or 
with great ease on the right side. Its use may, therefore, in 
all cases be substituted for the pressure of the leg in the de- 
scription of the modes of effecting the change of leg, turning 
to the left or right, or leading with either leg. With this 
substitution, aud with the caution against all violent at- 
tempts at coercion, which are better carried out by the fine 
hand and delicate tact of the lady, all the feats which man 
can perform may well be imitated by her. 

In Dismounting, the horse is brought to a dead stop, and 
his head held by an assistant; the lady then turns her knee 



BO HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

back again from the position between the outside crutch, takes 
her foot out of the stirrup, and sits completely sideways;' she 
then puts her left hand upon the gentleman's shouldw, who 
placeB his right arm round her waist, and lightly assists htr 
to the ground. 



DRIVING. 



VARIETIES OF CARRIAGES. 

Carriages used for pleasure, as distinguished from stage 
and hired carriages, are of numerous kinds, and have re- 
ceived an immense number of distinguishing names, some of 
which are only in vogue during a short reign, while others 
are long favorites of the driving public. 

The chief division is fourfold— First, two-wheeled open car- 
riages; secondly, two- wheeled headed carriages; thirdly, 
four-wheeled open carriages; fourthly, four-wheeled close 
carriages. 

Two-wheeled Open Carriages used by private parties 
are— the Dog-cart, the Dennet gig, the Tilbury, the inside 
and outside Irish car. 

In the Dog-cart, the body of which is more or less square, 
with two seats back to back, there is a large boot capable of 
taking dogs or luggage, and hence its general usefulness in 
the country. 

The springs are generally a single long side-spring, and the 
shafts are usually of lance-wood. They are made to shift the 
balance in case of their being used by two persons only, for 
which purpose various contrivances are adopted. 

In the Dennet, or Stanhope gig— which latter is now al- 
most exploded on account of its weight, and its so severely 
trying the back and legs of the horse— there is only room 
for two persons. The seat is generally rounded at the angles, 
and either railed or paneled; and the boot is plain and small, 
as compared with the dog-cart. 

In the peculiar principle first introduced by Fuller, of Bath, 
the shafts are of lance-wood, often combined with whalebone, 
and the knee-motion derived from the horse is almost totally 
got rid of. Upon this depends the comfort of all two-wheeled 
vehicles, and especially where two persons only are accom- 
modated; for, in many old-fashioned Dennets the motion 
was worse than any high-trotting horse. The shaft is 
tapered at the back-end and attached to a cross-spring, so 
that the fulcrum at the drawing-bar is in the center of two 
long springs— one between it and the horse'3 pad, the other 
between it and the back of the gig; and as they play easily, 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 31 

the two fixed points at the fulcrum and the back remain sta- 
tionary. When properly balanced, this gig ought not to 
press upon the horse's back on*level ground more than a few 
ounces, or just sufficient to prevent its bearing back, and 
thus straining the belly-band and fretting the. horse in that 
way. 

The Tilbury is a gig of a totally different construction, 
and being suspended upon leather braces, its motion is much 
softer than the Dennet ; but what it gains in this respect it 
loses in knee- motion, which is very considerable. There is 
no boot, but a skeleton body is attached to a plated and 
therefore rigid shaft, by means of a spring projecting in front, 
and attached by a brace, and another projecting behind, sus- 
pended to a cross-spring by a long leather brace. This cross- 
spring is raised from the cross-bar at the back of the shafts 
by iron stays in a T-like form ; and it was supposed when it 
was first invented that the leather brace would allow of the 
shaft moving with the horse without influencing the gig. 
This hypothesis was, however, not found to be consistent 
with the fact, a3 the Tilbury is found to receive a most un- 
comfortable motion from the horse, and to communicate it to 
the rider; and no plau has yet been discovered by which this 
can be remedied. By setting the cross-spring well back, and 
thus straining the braces apart, some improvement is effect- 
ed; but it is still a very uneasy gig, as compared with Fuller's 
Dennet, which has maintained its superiority for the last 25 
years, although hard pressed by the cheap substitutes which 
have been extensively adopted in its place, in the shape of 
dog- carts, etc. 

In the Irish Car the passengers are placed opposite one 
another in the inside car, and back to back in the outside va- 
riety, but iu both cases sideways as regards the line of prog- 
ress. They were formerly a good deal used in this country, 
but are now almost entirely superseded by the various dog- 
carts. 

Besides the above two-wheeled carriages there are several 
varieties of the dog-cart, as the AVhitechapel, the Malvern, 
the Croydon basket-cart, etc. 

The Two-wheeled Headed Carriages consist of the cab- 
riolet, the Hansom's cab, the Duobus, the Nottingham cot- 
tage-cart, and the headed Dennet 

The Cabriolet is a very handsome vehicle, but it is very 
heavy, both in actual weight and in draught ; and also very 
severe upon the horse's back and legs. It consists of a pe- 
culiarly shaped body, with a wooden knee-boot, incapable, 
therefore, of being folded up, and consequently very hot in 



RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

summer; the head will let down if desired; the springs are 
somewhat similar in principle to those of the Tilbury, except 
that they are of the C shape instead of the T. 

This vehicle is not well suited for country use, but for town 
work there is nothing so well adapted for those who usually 
drive themselves. A board is placed behind for the groom 
to stand upon, and his weight materially diminishes the knee- 
motion inside. Cabriolets cannot well be built under 7 1-2 
to 8 cwt., and most of them weigh 9 cwt. 

The Hansom Cab is generally a street vehicle, but 
sometimes it is adapted to private use, and makes a 
most comfortable one for professional men or for bachelors, 
though I cannot see in what it is superior to the Brougham. 
In a moderately hilly country, I know from experience that 
it is beaten by any light four-wheeled carriage, because it 
distresses the horse in going uphill or down. It consists of 
a roomy, cab-shaped body, of peculiar construction, which 
mu3t be familiar to all. and with the seat for the driver be- 
hind, so that he drives over the head of his master. Iu con- 
sequence of the high wheels which can be employed, these 
vehicles run very light on level ground, and they are much 
liked on account of the speed with which the horse can get 
along. They are on Dennet springs, and with plated ash- 
shafts; but, as they are evenly balanced, there is no knee- 
motion. 

The Duobus is a mere slice of an omnibus placed upon 
two wheels, and is an awkward and troublesome carriage in 
every respect. It is entered behind, and the driver sits on 
one side. These also are on Dennet springs ; and with lance- 
wood shafts they may be rendered free from knee-motion. 

The Nottingham Cottage-Cart is a very useful vehicle for 
the sportsman of limited means, who wishes an occasional 
close carriage for evening work or wet weather. It is well 
adapted for ordinary use, exactly like a roomy dog-cart; but 
it opens upward behind to form a head, and downward to 
make a foot-board, so that the two hind-seats are completely 
under cover. I can speak fully as to its merits and demerits, 
being really the inventor of it, as I had one built from my own 
designs iu the spring of the year 1851, and used it fully two 
years before the Nottingham cart was brought out, on a plan 
precisely similar to mine. Whatever merit, therefore, may 
belong to the invention is clearly mine, and I really believe it 
is a very serviceable cart for the purpose above specified, The 
only drawback is that the wheels throw the dirt in behind; 
and unless the weather is cold enough to allow of its being 
shut up closely, it is a very troublesome fault indeed. Tbe 
aame applies to dusty roads, in which condition this cart is 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 33 

absolutely stifling; but, as I said before, for night work, or as 
a defense against rain, it is very useful, and it will, on ordi- 
nary occasions, hold several dogs, either for shooting or 
coursing. 

The Headed Dennet is a very uncomfortable kind of close 
carriage, because the head is obliged to be made very high 
and shallow; the wind, therefore, beats the rain in very 
much, and it is not nearly so good a protection as a gig- 
umbrella, which may be made a very tolerable protection 
from rain. 

Open Four 7 w~i3eled Carriages consist of the britschka, 
the barouche^ vue various phaetons, and the sociable. 

The Brktschka and the Barouche may be considered to- 
gether, as they are alike in springs and general principle, 
though different in the shape of the body. In the former 
this is straight at the lower edge (called the rocker), and 
with a very low driving-box, it being generally used for 
traveling post. In the latter the rocker is boat-like, and the 
coach-box is raised considerably above the level of the inside 
seats. Both have a single head behind, and a knee-boot in 
front, which either turns down and protects the inside passen- 
gers' legs, or when turned back it serves to protect the two 
who ride with their backs to the horses. The britschka gen- 
erally has a rumble behind, but the barouche is not often sup- 
plied with that appendage. Both are on C springs, with 
elliptic springs under, and both have a perch. 

The Various Phaetons, including the Sociable, are difficult 
to define, but they are generally distinguished by the absence 
of the C springs and perch. They have almost always ellip- 
tic springs, similar in principle to those shown under the C 
springs, but lighter in make. Sometimes, however, as in the 
Mail Phaeton, they have them of a different construction, 
there being four springs behind and three before, constituting 
in the first case a square, and in the second three sides of 
that figure. These are attached, as in the Stanhope, behind ; 
and, like the Dennet, before ; but that they generally have 
leather braces instead of iron shackles. There is also a perch 
in the regular Mail Phaeton, which is, however, sometimes 
dispensed with in the smaller kinds built in the same general 
form, but with elliptic springs, and then called Stanhope 
Phaetons — lucus a non lueendo, that is, because they have 
dispensed with Stanhope springs. This is a curious exem- 
plification of the non sequitur, and the strongest with which 
I am acquainted ; for it really is the fact, that the phaeton 
with the Stanhope springs is called a Mail Phaeton, and with- 
out them a Stanhope Phaeton. 

The bodies of these phaetons ure of every form which can 



34 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

be contrived to accommodate four or six persons, and they 
rejoice in distinguishing names almost without end, as, the 
Pilentum, the Cab-bodied, the Sociable (now very fashionable), 
the George IV., the Albert, the Stanhope, the' Four-wheeled 
Dog-Cart, etc., etc. 

Fouk-wheeled Close Carriages are much less numerous, 
and are soon summed up under the following short list: 

First, the Family Coach; second, the Chariot; third, the 
Clarence; fourth, the Brougham. It is true that there are 
infinite variations made in each of the above, but very slight 
as compared with the previously described carriages. 

The Coach has the same C and under springs as the 
britschka, with the perch also. It is, however, completely 
covered in, having only a single glass on each sid%, capable 
of being raised or lowered. 

The Chariot is similar in all respects to the coach, except 
that it only holds two. and has glasses in front as well as 
on the sides. This carriage, when made to open, is called a 
Landaulet. 

The Clarence has a light body, to hold four, but placed on 
elliptic or grasshopper springs, and without a perch. It is 
much lighter in every way than the coach, but neither so 
easy nor so free from noise. From its lightness it is still 
much used in the country, but in New York it is now becom- 
ing again supplanted by the carriages with C springs. 

The Brougham is to the Clarence what the chariot is to the 
coach, but some Broughams are so made as to hold four peo- 
ple, and are then called round-fronted Broughams. Their 
great advantage is, that they may tolerably well be used 
with one horse, which to many people is a great object. Of 
late a spring has been invented, by which the C spring is in- 
troduced without the perch, which is generally connected with 
that soft and yielding kind of spring. This is said to remedy 
the- great defects of these carriages, namely, their peculiar 
hum to the ear of the inside traveler, which becomes very dis- 
tressing after a time, and to avoid it small chariots have been 
for some years built with light iron perches. Their weight, 
however, is nearly double that of an ordinary Brougham, and 
they are quite beyond the powers of one horse for more than 
a very short drive. 

I have uever myself tried the spring, but it appears to me 
to be a very useful mode of doing away with some part of the 
jar and noise incidental to the Brougham; nevertheless, that 
connected with the fore-spring must still remain, and, con- 
sequently, I am afraid the object is only in part attained; but, 
as I before remarked, I have not put the matter to the test by 
actual experiment. 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 35 



Harness is differently constructed, according to the pur- 
pose for which it is intended. Thus there are the following— 
viz., gig harness, phaeton harness, chariot harness, tandem 
harness, and four-horse harness, according as each variety is 
intended for the purpose of being attached to the kind of car- 
riage prefixed to the general title. 

Gig Harness, which is equally suitable for single horse 
phaetons, or, in fact, for any single work, consists of three 
portions— first, the drawing part f secondly, the part for hold- 
ing the shafts of the gig up and back; and thirdly, that for 
guiding the horse. 

The Drawing Part consists of the Collar, which is an 
oval ring padded to fit the shoulders, or of a Breast Strap, 
being merely a broad and padded strap, crossing in front of 
the shoulder parts. If the collar is used, two iron bars, 
called Hames, are buckled on each side by means of a leather 
strap at top and bottom, called a Hame Strap, which passes 
through an eye at the end of each hame, and is afterward 
drawn tight and buckled. Toward the top of each hame is a 
ring, called a Hame Terret, for the reins to pass thftmgh ; 
and a little below the middle there is an arm, with a metal 
eye. to which the Tug of the trace is attached. This tug, 
again, is stitched into a double piece of leather, which is 
attached to the buckle for the Trace. This last is 
simply a long double leather strap, attached at one end to 
the above buckle, and to the other by an eye to the drawing 
bar of the gig. 

The supporting and backing part consists of the Pad or 
Saddle, somewhat similar in principle to the riding saddle, 
but much narrower and lighter. This has two rings for the 
reins, called the Terrets, and a Hook for the bearing rein, 
all at the top. It is fastened to the horse by a Belly-Band, 
and at the back of it there is an eye for the crupper, which is 
a leather strap from it to the tail, round the root of which it 
passes, and thus holds the pad from pressing forward. 
Through the middle of the pad passes a strong leather strap, 
called the Back-Band, which is attached to a buckle and 
strong loop on each side, called the Shaft Tug, by which the 
shaft is supported, and also kept back from pressing upon 
the horse's quarters, in which latter office it is sometimes as- 
sisted by a leather strap passing round these parts and buckled 
on each side, either to the shaft or to its tug, and called the 
Breechen. 

The part for guiding the horse consists of the Bridle and 
t he Reins, the former being made use of, two Cheek-pieces, 
and Winkers, a Throat-lash, a Nose-band, a Face-strap, 



36 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

a Front-piece and a Head-piece. The cheek-pieces are 
buckled to the Bit, which is generally a strong curb, but 
sometimes only a Double-Ringed Snaffle, now very com- 
monly used in driving. The £eins are merely long aud nar- 
row strips of leather passing from the bit through the hame 
and pad-terrets to the driver's hand. Bearing-reins are ad- 
ditional reins attached to bridoon bits, and passing through 
fcar-rings on or near the throat-lash to the hook on the pad. 
They are, however, now seldom used in single harness. Where 
the bearing-rein is not used, a long ear-ring is now sometimes 
suspended from the head of the bridle, through which the driv- 
ing rein passes, and by which the horse is prevented from get- 
ting there in under the point of the shaft, an accident which 
is very annoying to those who leave their horses standing 
about with their servants. 

Phaeton and Chariot Harness are both made on the 
same principle, differing only in lightness both of leather and 
ornament, the former being altogether much less heavy than 
the latter. 

Double harness consists, like single harness, of three 
essential parts ; but as there is no shaft to be supported, the 
pad is much lighter and more simple. The drawing part is 
similar to that already described, except that the lower eyes 
of the hames are permanently conuected by an oval ring of 
metal, upon the lower part of which a ring freely travels, on 
which the pole piece of the carriage is buckled, and by which 
it is backed. The trace-buckles, 'also, are opposite the pad, 
and supported from it by a light strap, called the Trace- 
bearer. The traces themselves either end with an eye, or, 
with a full-fold upon themselves, with an iron eye, called a 
Roller, and intended to be used upon the Roller-bolt of the 
splinter-bar. The Pad is very light, and has no back-baud ; 
sometimes a long Breechen runs to the trace-buckle; but 
for light harness a mere supporting strap for the traces, 
called a Hip-strap, is all that is used. The Bridle is nearly 
the same as for single harness, except that there are no orna- 
ments on that side which is toward the pole. The Reins 
have, in addition to the single rein which is attached to the 
outside of each horse's bit, another called a Coupling-rein, 
which has a buckle toward the driver running upon the 
driving-rein, so that it may be taken up or let out at pleas- 
ure. These coupling-reins are attached to the inside of the 
bit of the opposite horse, crossing one another after they 
have been passed through both the pad and hame-terrets. so 
that the off driving-rein, with its coupling-rein, pulls the off 
side of the bits of each horse, and the near reins both the 
near sides. 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 37 

In double-harness, bearing-reins may or may not be used, 
but they are generally included in its purchase. 

Tandem Harness consists of a single harness for the horse 
in the shafts, called the " wheeler," with the addition only of 
double terrets on the pad, for the leader's reins to pass 
through, and also of a double ear-ring for the same purpose. 
The leader has harness of the same description as the light 
phaeton double harness, except that both sides of the bridle 
are alike, and that the traces are about six feet longer than 
for ordinary work. They have a swivel-hook, by which they 
are attached either to the points of the shafts or to the wheel- 
er's trace-buckles, where the shafts have no eyes for the pur- 
pose. 

Four-Horse Harness consists of that for the wheelers, like 
chariot harness, with double terrets, and one on the head- 
piece instead of the ear-ring. The leaders have the same as 
the tandem leader's harness, except that when they are driven 
" four-in-hand " their traces are shorter, and they end in eyes 
or hooks, by which they are attached to "serving- bars" that 
are suspended to a hook at the end of the pole. 

Whips vary in size and length, from the small light and 
stout whip of a pony phaeton to the four-in-hand whip with 
a lash long enough to reach the leader's head. 

HARNESS-HORSES. 

Harness-Horses are either ponies, gig-horses, Brougham- 
horses, or coach-horses; being gradually larger and heavier 
from one end to the other of the line, which begins at the 
size of the small pony, and extends up to the carriage-horse 
of 17 hands. 

Ponies are met with all over the Unked States, and are of 
various breeds ; some of which are of wonderful powers of 
endurance, with good symmetry and action, and with never- 
failing legs and feet. In general soundness they far excel the 
larger varieties of the horse, for which there is no account- 
ing, as they are much more neglected and frequently very 
ill-used. A broken-winded pony, or a roarer, is a very un- 
common sight, and even a lame one is by no means an every- 
day occurrence. There is every reason to believe that the 
Arab blood has been largely diffused among the ponies of our 
heaths and forests ; and their neat heads and great powers 
of endurance, together with the small size of their bone3, 
would warrant the assumption. 

Among the Welsh ponies there is a strong cross of the Nor- 
man horse, and they have many of them the dark mark down 
the back which is peculiar to that breed, together with the 
hardiness of constitution inherent in it. Gigsfcers of all kinds 
are the refuse ot the hunting-stock or of the racing-stud, 



38 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

those which are too clumsy and slow for those purposes being 
put to harness. Some are good trotters and yet bad gallop- 
ers, and they are, consequently, as well fitted for harness 
work as they are unsuited for hunting. A great number of 
gigsters are also under-sized carriage-horses, which last are 
the produce of Cleveland or Clydesdale mares by well-bred or 
even thorough-bred horses. Until lately the Cleveland mare 
was almost the sole origin, on the dam's side, of our best 
carriage-horses ; but latterly the Clydesdale mare has been 
very extensively used, and with much better success ; inas- 
much as the produce are much more hardy, and though, per- 
haps, not quite so level, yet more blood-like, and their legs 
and feet much more firm and enduring. This is, I believe, 
the best cross in the world for general harness work, and it 
will beat the Cleveland breed in every respect. 

A noted horseman first recommended the adoption of the 
cross direct between the Cleveland mare and the thorough- 
bred horse, and his name and authority have kept up the 
practice ever since; but it is now at last discovered that as 
far as legs go they are an unprofitable sort, and that they 
stand road-work almost worse than any others, except an 
unsound race-horse. I am in great hopes that the Clydesdale 
mare will turn out a very much better substitute; and that 
her produce will not only be useful as carriage horses, but as 
the dams of three-quarters and seven-eighths-bred road- 
horses and hunters. There is a fine roomy frame to go upon, 
with great ragged hips, flat clean legs, and good heads, and 
with tempers which are tit to be taught auything. The con- 
stitution also is good, and in every respect this breed appears 
to me calculated for the purpose I am now discussing; and 
from the numerous good specimens I have seen resulting 
from the first cross, I am induced to hope that the expecta- 
tions of those who have adopted it will be fully realized. 

HARNESSING AND PUTTING-TO. 

Harnessing. —In all cases the first thing to be done, after 
the horse is dressed, is to put on the collar, which is effected 
by turning the horse round in his stall, and slipping it over 
his head with the large end upward. This inversion is re- 
quired because the front of the head is the widest part, and 
in this way is adapted to the widest part of the collar, which, 
even with this arrangement, will in coarsely-bred horses 
hardly pass over the cheek-bones. Before the collar is put 
in its place, the hames are put on and buckled; for if this 
wa9 delayed until after it had been reversed, they would 
have to be held on while the bame-straps were being drawn 
together, whereas in this way their own weight keeps them 
in place. They are now reversed altogether, and the pad 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 39 

put iu its place; before buckling the belly-band of which the 
crupper is slipped over the tail by doubling up all the hair, 
and grasping it carefully in the left hand while the right 
adapts the crupper. 

A careful examination should always be made that no 
hairs are left under it, for if they are they irritate the skin, 
and often cause a tit of kicking. After the crupper is set 
right the pad is drawn forward, and its belly-band buckled 
up pretty tightly ; the bridle is now put on, and the curb- 
chain properly applied, the reins being slipped through the 
terrets and buckled on both sides, if for single harness, or on 
the outside only if for double, and the driving-rein folded back 
and tied in the pad terret, 

Putting-to is managed very differently, according to 
whether the horse is going in shafts or with a pole. 

If for shafts, they are tilted up and held there by one 
person, while the other backs the horse until he is under 
them, when they are dropped down, and the tugs slipped 
under or over the ends of the shafts, according to the forma- 
tion of the tugs, some being hooks, and others merely leather 
loops. Care must be taken that they do not slip beyond the 
pins on the shafts. The traces are now attached to the 
drawing-bar, the breechen or kicking-strap buckled, and the 
false belly-band buckled up pretty tightly, so as to keep the 
shafts steady. Id four-wheeled carriages it should be left 
tolerably loose when a breechen is used, to allow of this 
having free play. The reins are now untwisted from the 
terret, and the horse is put to. 

For double harness, the first thing is to bring the horse 
round by the side of the pole, and put the pole-piece through 
the sliding rings of the hames, the groom holding it, or else 
buckling it at the longest hole while the traces are being put 
to; as soon as this is done the pole-piece is buckled up to its 
proper length, each coupling-rein buckled to the opposite 
horse's bit, the driving-reins untwisted from the terrets, and 
the two buckled together, and the horses are ready. The 
leaders of a tandem or four-in-hand are easily attached, and 
their reins are passed through the rings on the heads of the 
wheelers, and through the upper half of the pad terret. 

Unharnessing is exactly the reverse of the above, every- 
thing being undone exactly iu the same order in which it was 
done. The chief errors in either are- in double harness, in 
not attaching the pole-piece at once in putting to, or in un- 
buckling it altogether too soon, by which the horse is at 
liberty to get back upon the bars, and often does consider- 
able damage by kicking. 



4C HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 
BREA KING TO HARNESS. 

For Double-Harness Work, a double break aud break 
horse only are required to effect this object, and a very short 
time will generally suffice to make a young horse manage- 
able, if driven with a steady companion, and by a careful 
pair of hands. It is some time before he would be fit for a 
timid lady, but for country work with those who are not 
alarmed by an occasional 3light freak, after a week or ten 
days, a horse may safely be used. 

The first thing to be done, is to put the harness on, and 
allow it to remain for an hour or two during the two or three 
days before the horse is driven. Previously to this he should 
be thoroughly broken to the saddle, because he will not other- 
wise know the use of the bit, and without that he will be en- 
tirely unmanageable. It was formerly a very common practice 
to break carriage-horses at plow, by putting them in the mid- 
dle of a team, and letting them jump and kick till they were 
tired; but this is a bad plan, aud many horses have been 
spoiled both in limb and temper by it. 

Curbs and spavins are very commonly caused by the strug- 
gles of a high-couraged horse; and jibbing will often ensue 
as a consequence in a bad-tempered or sluggish one. The 
hot blood derived from the Eastern horse leads these colts to 
plunge and fight against restraint, in a very different way 
from the dull and phlegmatic cart-horse; and, therefore, the 
plan is now discarded in favor of the break, where the colt 
has the power of moving forward, to some extent, in all his 
plunges, if any, and his blood is not unnecessarily roused by 
resistance. After he has been made accustomed to the har- 
ness, he is put in with the break horse, an animal of great 
power, size, and steadiness. The break horse should first be 
put to, and the break brought out into a tolerably open 
place, where it may start on level ground, or with a very 
slight ascent. The break is built very strongly, and should 
have the space between the drawing-bar and the front axle- 
tree made up with iron rods, so that if a horse kicks over the 
bar his legs do not fall, but he draws them back again at 
once. The bar also should be padded, to prevent him dam- 
aging himself in his violence, if he plunges and kicks as some 
will do. The colt should have a well-fitting collar on, and it 
should be previously well-oiled, to prevent its fretting the 
skin; he should also have a common rope halter on, with the 
end tied loosely to the hame terret, so that the breaksman 
can lay hold of it, and draw him toward him, without touch- 
ing his mouth. 

Wheu all is ready, and the two hor3es are put together, 
with the driver on the box, the break horse is gently touched 
with the whip, and takes the break off very quietly, the 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 41 

hreaksman walking by the side, and encouraging the colt. 
Generally speaking, he walks off as quietly as possible, or he 
may make a bounce or two, but at first he does not seem to 
recognize his fetters; after a while, however, he will often 
plunge more or less, and perhaps, if viciously inclined, begin 
to kick. The break should be steadily driven on", and kept 
going for an hour, or rather more, but not much longer, as 
the shoulders are very apt to be galled by a persistence be- 
yond that time. This lesson is repeated every day, until the 
horse learns to turn and hold back; and it is astonishing how 
soon a-good-tempered horse takes to his new work. 

Knee-caps should in all cases be put on, to prevent blem- 
ishes in case of any accidents. 

For Single Work, every horse should first be put in 
double harness, and driven at least five or six times. It is 
not generally at first that vice shows itself, and frequently 
not until the fourth or fifth lesson, when the driver begins to 
try what the colt is made of by giving him a short gallop, 
with a stroke or two of the whip. And until this has been 
done no one can foretell what the colt will do under provo- 
cation, which is sure to come some time or other. When, 
however, this has been tried, and the colt will turn to either 
side, stop, and back, as well as throw himself in his breechen 
in going downhill, he may safely be put into single harness, 
though at the same time with great care. Some horses are 
at all times quiet in double harness, and yet will never go in 
single harness, of which I have had several specimens. 

I once had a most inveterate kicker in single harness, 
which would go as quietly as possible in double ; and I have 
had several bad jibbers which never showed that tendency 
for some time after breaking. When the horse is first put in 
single harness it should be in a break expressly made with 
strong and stout shafts, and high enough to prevent his 
kicking over; though some horses are able to kick over any- 
thing, and no kicking-strap will hold them down. A safety- 
rein should be added, buckled on to the lower bar of the bit, 
and passed through a ring on the tug and by the side of the 
dashboard up to the hand, where it may be held ready for 
use in case of the horse attempting to bolt. For ordinary 
use the rein should be put to the cheek, so as to be as little 
irksome to the horse as possible, and no bearing-rein should 
on any account be used. 

With these precautions, and with the aid of a breaksman 
and a liberal quantity of patience, most horses may be 
broken in. When there is a great resistance to the breaking 
to single harness, or a tendency to jib or run away, a stout 
shaft may be furnished with a projecting bar of iron, and an 
out-rigger applied to the splinter-bar, by which a second bar 



42 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

is fixed; and then a break-horse may be attached outside 
the shafts, and thus the colt is then compelled to go on or 
stop by the power of the steady and trained horse. In this 
mode the reins are applied as for pair-horse driving, and it 
is a very excellent way of breaking unruly horses; indeed, I 
have known it succeed when all other means had failed 
in an obstinate kicker ; but only, however, for a time, as the 
vice showed itself nearly as bad as ever after a time. 

DRIVING. 

Driving a Single Horse is a very simple process, and re- 
quires only a good hand and eye. 

The reins are held differently from riding, the near rein pass- 
ing over the forefinger, and the off between it and the mid- 
dle finger; and then through the hand, descending from the 
palm by the side of the knees. The thumb keeps the near rein 
firmly against the forefinger, and I have always found it a 
good plan to pass both reins out of the hand between the 
little and ring-fingers, so that without keeping the thumb 
very firmly fixed, they do not slip through the fingers when 
the horse makes a mistake. This has saved me many an ac- 
cident, because when a person is tired with driving many 
miles, and the attention flags, a horse, in making a mistake, 
is not checked till it is too late, in consequence of the thumb 
and forefinger suffering the rein to slip some inches before it 
is held firmly between them; but when passing through an 
additional pair of fingers, and making an angle in order to do 
this, it is astonishing how firmly the reins are held, and yet 
with how much less fatigue to the hand. 

The bearing-rein is now almost totally out of use in single 
harness, where it is no more needed than for riding, because 
the driver has even more command of the mouth than if he 
were in the saddle. There is no doubt that a bearing-rein is 
better than a careless driver; but with ordinary care the horse 
is saved by a slight check, which does not keep him up, but 
makes him keep himself up. This he is partly prevented from 
doing from the confinement of the head, caused by the bear- 
ing-rein, and, therefore, although it is useful in driving the 
horse to hold the head up, it is injurious to an equal extent 
by confining him from that quick exertion of his powers 
which might save him from a fall. It is true that many old 
horses which have been used to lean upon the bearing-rein 
cannot be safely driven without; but in most of those which 
have never been accustomed to its use, it may safely be dis- 
pensed with. I have had some few which never could be 
trusted without a bearing-rein, even though broken-in care- 
fully for me; but this was from defective action, and from 
that straight-necked form which is almost sure to Jead to a 
heavy hanging upon the bit. 



RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 4o 



down now as compared with former years, when this rein 
was in general use, and yet these horses are quite as hard 
worked as ever, and often with scarcely one good leg out of 
the four. But with their heads at liberty, and only a double- 
ringed snaffle, they rarely make a mistake; or, if they do, 
they are almost sure to save themselves from it. Too tight 
a rein is quite as bad as holding it too loose, and a gagged 
horse will be so confined in his action as to be always mak- 
ing mistakes. The head should have a tolerable degree of 
liberty, the mouth just feeling the hand, so as in a good 
mouth to lead to that playing with the bit which is the per- 
fection of breaking and driving. By this I mean that ten- 
dency to keep within the bit and to avoid its pressure which 
a fine mouth will always show; and yet when there is high 
pourage, a constant desire to press forward as soon as tbe 
hand is at all relaxed: up a steep hill, the head should have 
entire liberty, while down-hill the hand should be shortened 
upon the rein, and, with his knees straight, and tlie feet well 
out, the driver should be prepared for a mistake, and ready 
to assist if it i3 made, not by violently dragging at the head, 
but by checking sufficiently without gagging the horse. 

The mere avoiding of other vehicles in meeting or passing 
is too simple an affair to require minute description. 

In Driving a Pair, the great art consists in putting them 
together, so as to draw equally, and to step together. 

To do this well, the horses must match in action and tem- 
per, two slugs being much better than a free-tempered horse 
and a slug; because in this case the whip applied to the one 
only makes the other more free, and as a consequence it is 
impossible to make them draw equally. In some cases where 
two horses are exactly equally matched, the coupliDg-reins 
must both be of equal length; but this is seldom the case; 
and when they do not do an equal an^ount of work, the coup- 
ling rein of the free one must be taken up, and that of the 
idle horse let out. In watching the working of the two horses 
the pole-pieces should always be the guide; and if both are 
slack, with the end of the pole steady, and neither horse 
shouldering it, the driver may rest contented that his horses 
are each doing their share ; if, however, the pole is shouldered 
by either, that horse is a rogue, and is making the other .do 
more than his share, and keeping the pole straight by the press- 
ure of hi3 shoulder, instead of pulling at the traces. On the 
other hand, if either horse is pulling away from the pole, and 
straining at the pole-piece, he is doing more than his share, 
and his coupling-rein must be taken hi accordingly. Some- 
times both shoulder the pole, or spread from it, which are 
equally unsightly habits, and may generally be cured by an al- 



44 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

teration of the coupling-reins of both horses, letting them out 
for shouldering, and taking them in for its opposite bad 
habit. The reins are held in the same way for double-harness 
as for single. 

Bearing-reins are more necessary here than in single-har- 
ness, because there is not the same immediate command of 
a horse; but in tolerably active and safe goers there is little 
necessity for them; it is only when horses stand about much 
that they are wanted, and then only for display ; but for this 
t hey certainly are of service, as the horse stands in a very 
proud and handsome attitude when "borne up," and the 
pair match much better when they are suffered "to stand at 



In driving a pair, it should always be remembered that 
there are two methods of driving round a curve, one by pull- 
ing the inside rein, and the other by hitting the outside horse^ 
and these two should generally be" combined, graduating thlF 
use of the whip by the thinness of the skin of the horse. In 
all cases the whip is required in double-harness, if not to 
drive horses when thoroughly put together, yet to make them 
pull equally; and there are very few pairs which do not oc- 
casionally want a little reminding of their duties. A con- 
stant change from one side to the other is a prevention of 
those tricks and bad habits which horses get into if they are 
always kept to one side only. The coachman should, there- 
fore, change them every now and then, and back again, so 
as to make what was a puller from the pole rather bear to- 
ward it than otherwise when put on the other side. 

Various Devices are used by old hands for curing vices in 
harness horses. 

The kicking-strap in single harness is merely a strap over 
the croup, buckled down to the shafts ; and in double harness 
a somewhat similar plan is adopted, but of little use as com- 
pared with that used in «ingle harness. Besides these there 
are side-reins, martingales, and a variety of other schemes 
invented; but every one who is likely to want them has his 
own peculiar ideas on the subject, and it will be unnecessary 
for me to go into a description of them. 
: o : 

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



FOR OOLIC. 

No. 1. Take of laudanum, 1 ounce, spirits of turpentine, 
1 1-2 ounces, mix, and give to one dose in three times the 
amount of warm water. 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 45 

No. 2. Sulphuric ether, 1 1-2 ounces, laudanum, 1 ounce, 
essence peppermint, 2 ounces, water, 16 ounces, mix, and 
shake well before giving. 

FOR HEAVES. 

No. 1. One teaspoonful of lobelia, given in the feed once 
a day, for a week, and then once or twice a week will stop 
them for a time. 

No. 2. balsam copaiba, 1 oz., spts. of turpentine, 2 oz., 
balsam fir, 1 oz., cider vinegar, 16 oz.,.mix, and give a table- 
spoonful once a day. 

No. 3. Saltpeter, 1 ounce, indigo, 1-2 ounce, rain water, 
four pints, mix, and give a pint twice a day. 

No. 4. Licorice, elecampane, wild turnip, fenugreek, 
skunk-cabbage, lobelia, cayenne, and ginger equal parts of 
each, mix, and give a tablespoonful once or twice a day ; if 
the horse refuses to eat it in feed, make into a ball and 
give. 

CONTRACTED HOOF OR SORE FEET. 

No. 1. Take equal parts of soft fat, yellow wax, linseed 
oil, Venice turpentine, and Norway tar; first melt the wax, 
then add the others, mixing thoroughly. Apply to the edge 
of the hair once a day. 

No. 2. Benzine, 1 ounce, salts of niter, 1 ounce, alcohol, 
3 ounces, aqua ammonia, 2 ounces, Venice turpentine, 8 
ounces. Mix, apply to the edge of the hair, and all over the 
hoof once a day, for ten days, then twice a week for a short 
time. 

No. 3. Rosin, 4 ounces, lard, 8 ounces; heat them over a 
slow fire, then take oflf and add, po. verdigris, 1 ounce, stir 
well to prevent it running over ; when partly cool, add spirits 
turpentine, 2 ounces. Apply to the hoof about one inch 
down from the hair. 

HORSE LINIMENTS. 

No. 1. Oil spike, oil origanum, oil hemlock, oil worm- 
wood, aqua ammonia, camphor gum, of each 2 ounces, olive 
oil, 4 ounces, alcohol, one quart. Mix. This is an excellent 
liniment for man or beast. 

No. 2. Oil origanum, oil amber, sweet oil, of each one 
ouuce, oil spike, aqua ammonia, and oil of turpentiue, of 
each, two ounces. Mix. 

No. 3. Linseed oil, 8 ounces, turpentine, 8 ounces, oil 
origanum, 4 ounces. Mix well. This is excellent for sprains 
and bruises, and as a general liniment is good. 

No. 4. Oil spike, 1 ounce, oil origanum, 2 ounces, alcohol, 
16 ounces. Good for lameness from almost any cause. 

No. 5. Take equal parts, alcohol, chlorofoim, aqua ammo- 
nia, Jamaica rum and water. Mix. 



46 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 
FOK SCRATCHES AND GREASE HEEL. 

No. 1. Balsam fir, 4 ounces, lard, 4 ounces. Stir with a 
gentle heat until thoroughly mixed. Wash the sores well 
with castile soap, and apply. 

No. 2. Sugar of lead, 2 oz., borax, 1 oz., sweet oil, 6 oz., 
mix, and apply twice daily after washing with castile soap, 
and drying. 

No. 3. Tincture of myrrh, 2 oz., glycerine, 4 oz., tincture 
of arnica, 2 oz. Mix thoroughly and apply two or three times 
a day, after cleansing as above with castile soap. 

No. 4. Take 1-2 oz., of powdered verdigris, and one pint 
rum, or proof spirits. Mix, and apply once or twice a day. 
This works nicely for grease heel or mud fever. 

No. 5. Take of oxide of zinc, 1 drachm, lard, 1 ounce, pow- 
dered gum benzoin, ten grains, camphorated spirits, one 
drachm. Mix thoroughly and rub on twice a week. Do not 
wash after the first application. 

CUTS, WOUNDS AND SORES. 

No. 1. Take of lard, 4 ounces, beeswax, 4 ounces, rosin, 2 
ounces, carbolic acid, 1-4 ounces. Mix the three first and 
melt, then add the carbolic acid, stirring until cool. This is 
excellent for man as well as beast. 

No. 2. Tincture aloes, 1 ounce, tincture myrrh, 1-2 ounce, 
tincture opium, 1-2 ounce, water, four ounces, mix, and apply 
night and morning. 

No. 3. Tincture opium, 2 ounces, tannin, 1-4 ounce. Mix. 

No. 4. Carbolic acid, 1 ounce, soft water, 1 quart. Mix. 

SWEENEY. 

No. 1. Spanish flies, camphor gum, and cayenne, of each 

1 oz., alcohol 10 ozs., spts. turpentine, 6 ozs., oil origanum. 

2 ozs. Mix. 

No. 2. Alcohol, 16 ozs., spirits turpentine, 10 ozs., muri- 
ate of ammonia, 1 oz. Mix. 

No. 3. Alcohol, water, spirits of turpentine and soft soap, 
of each 1 pint, salt. 6 ozs. Mix. 

POLL EVIL AND FISTULA. 

No. 1. Copperas, 1 drachm, blue vitriol, 2 drachms, com- 
mon salt 2 drachms, white vitriol, 1 drachm ; mix and powder 
fine. Fill a goose-quill with the powder, and push it to the 
bottom of the pipe, having a stick in the top of the quill, so 
that you can push the powder out of the quill, leaving it at 
the bottom of the pipe ; repeat again in about four days, and 
in two or three days from that time you can take hold of the 
pipe and remove it without trouble. 

No. 2. Tincture of opium, 1 drachm, potash, 2 drachms, 
water, 1 ounce; mix, and when dissolved inject into the pipes 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 47 

with a small syringe, having cleansed the sore with soap- 
suds; repeat every two days until the pipes are completely 
destroyed. 

No. 3. Take a small piece of lunar caustic, place in the 
pipe, after being cleansed with soap-suds, then till the hole 
with sweet oil. 

BOTS. 

Take new milk, 2 quarts, syrup, 1 quart, mix and give the 
whole, and in fifteen or twenty minutes after give 2 quarts of 
warm, strong sage tea; half an hour after the tea, give 1 
quart of linseed oil, or if the oil cannot be had give lard in- 
stead. 

OINTMENT FOR HORSES. 

Bees-wax, 2 ounces, rosin, 3 ounces, lard, 4 ounces, car- 
bolic acid, 1 drachm, honey, 1-2 ounce, melt all together and 
bring slowly to a boil, then remove from the fire, and add 
slowly 1 gill of spirits of turpentine, stirring all the time 
until cool ; used with good success for galls, cracked heels, 
flesh wounds or bruises. 

CONDITION POWDERS. 

No. 1. Gentian, fenugreek, sulphur, saltpeter, cream of 
tartar, of each 2 ounces, rosin, black antimony, of each 1 oz., 
ginger, licoriee, 3 ozs. each, cayenne, 1 oz., pulverized and 
mized thoroughly; dose, 1 tablespoon ful, once or twice a 
day, mixed with the feed; used with good success for coughs, 
colds, distemper, hidebound, and nearly all diseases for which 
Condition Powders are given. 

No. 2. Fenugreek, 4 ozs., ginger, 6 ozs., anise, pulver- 
ized, 4 ozs., gentian, 2 ozs., black antimony, 2 ozs., hard 
wood ashes, 4 ozs.; mix all together; excellent to give a 
horse an appetite. 

No. 3. Licorice, 4 ozs., fenugreek, 4 ozs., elecampane, 4 
ozs., blood root, 1 oz., tartar emetic 1-2 oz., ginger and cay- 
enne, each 1 oz. ; mix and give a tablespoonful two or three 
times a day in the feed. One of the best condition powders 
for any cough, cold, distemper or epizootic; also excellent 
for heaves. For heaves, 1 oz. of lobelia and camphor may 
be added. 

LINIMENTS FOR HORSES. 

No. 1. Olive oil, 2 ozs., aqua ammonia, 1 oz. ; mix and 
add 2 ozs. oil origanum, 2 ozs. spirits of turpentine, 1-2 oz. 
oil of wormwood, 1 pint strongest alcohol; mix. This lini- 
ment is excellent for any lameness, also good for spavins, 
ringbones, curbs, etc., if used when they make the first ap- 
pearance. 



48 HOW TO BREAK, TUDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

No. 2. Oil of spike, 1 oz., oil of origanum, 4 ozs., aqua am 
monia, 2 ozs., tincture of cayenne pepper, 4 ozs., beef's gall, 
one gill, camphor gum, 1 oz., alcohol, 1 pint; mix: used for 
the same purposes as No. 1. 

No. 3. Best vinegar, 1 qt., saltpeter, pulverized, 4 ozs., 
wormwood, 4 ozs.; mix, and steep in a dish well covered; 
strain and press the herbs : valuable for bruises, swellings and 
sprains. 

SADDLE AND HARNESS GALLS, BRUISES, ETC. 

No. 1. Tincture of opium, 2 ozs., tannin, 2 drachms; mix 
and apply twice a day. 

No. 2. Take white-lead and linseed oil, mix as for paint, 
and apply two or three times a day ; this is good for scratches, 
or any wounds on a horse. 

EYE-WATER FOR HORSES. 

Sugar of lead, 1 drachm, tincture of opium, 2 drachms, 
soft water, 1 pint ; mix, and wash the eye two or three times 
a day. 

FOUNDER. 

No. 1. Vinegar, 3 pints, cayenne pepper, 1-2 drachm, 
tincture of aconite root, 15 drops, mix, and boil down to 1 
quart; when cool, give as a drench; blanket the horse well; 
after the horse has perspired for an hour or more, give one 
quart of linseed oil: this treatment will be found good for 
horses foundered by eating too much graiu. 

No 2. Some recommend for horses foundered on grain, to 
bleed about 1 gallon, then to drench the horse with linseed 
oil, 1 quart; after this, rub the fore legs well, and for a long 
time with very warm water, with a little tincture of opium 
mixed with it. As the horse will not recover from the loss of 
blood for a long time, it is^usually better to adopt the treat- 
ment given in No. 1. 

ANODYNE DRENCHES. 

No. 1. Tincture of opium, 1 ounce, starch gruel, 1 quart; 
mix. 

No. 2. Sweet spirits of niter, 1 oz., tincture of opium, 1 
oz., essence of peppermint, 1-4 oz., water, 1 pint; mix. 

No. 3. Tincture of opium, 1 oz., spirits of camphor, 1-2 
ounce, anise, 1-2 ounce, sulphuric ether, 1 oz., water, 1 piut; 
mix. 

DIABETES. 

Sugar of lead, 10 grains, alum 30 grains, catechu, 1 . dr., 
tincture of opium, 1-2 ounce, water, 1 pint; mix. 

FARCY AND GLANDERS. 

No. 1. Iodide of potassium, 1 1-4 drachms, copperas 1-2 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 49 

drachm, ginger, 1 drachm, gentian, 2 drachms, powdered 
gum-arabic and syrup to form a ball. 

No. 2= Calomel, 1-2 drachm, turpentine, 1-2 ounce, blue 
vitriol, 1 drachm, gum-arabic and syrup to form a ball. 

No. 3. 1-2 ounce sulphate of soda, 5 grains of Spanish 
flies, powdered; mix; and give at night in' cut feed for sev- 
eral weeks; give at the same time every morning and noon, 
3 drachms powdered gentian, 2 drachms powdered blue vit- 
riol; give the medicines for along time; feed well. This is 
the best treatment that can be given for this disease. 

FEVER BALLS. 

No. 1. Saltpeter, 2 1-2 drachms, tartar emetic, 1-2 drachm, 
flaxseed meal, 1 oz., camphor, 1-2 drachm, ginger, 2 drachms; 
mix, and form into a ball; repeat three or four times a day if 
necessary. 

No. 2. Tincture of aconite, ten drops, tartar emetic, 1-4 
drachm, saltpeter, 1 drachm, ginger, 2 drachms, linseed 
meal, 1 ounce; mix, and form into a ball; repeat three or 
four times a day if necessary. 

DIURETIC AND TONIC BALL. 

Copperas, 1 1-2 drachm, ginger, 1 drachm, gentian, 1 
drachm, saltpeter, 3 drachms, rosin, 1-2 oz., flaxseed meal, 
1 oz. ; mix, and form into a ball. 

DIURETIC BALLS. 

No. 1. Saltpeter, 3 drachms, rosin, 4 drachms, castile 
soap, 2 drachms, fenugreek, 3 drachms, flaxseed meal, 1 
ounce; mix, and form into a ball. 

No. 2. Oil of juniper, 1-2 drachm, rosin and saltpeter 
each, 2 drachms, camphor, 1-2 drachm, castile soap, 1 oz., 
flaxseed meal, 1 oz. ; mix, and form into a ball. 

CORDIAL BALLS. 

No. 1. Anise, powdered, 1-2 ounce, ginger, 1 drachm, 
gentian, 1 drachm, fenugreek, 2 drachms; mix. 

No. 2. Caraway and ginger, each, 2 drachms, anise, gen- 
tian and fenugreek, each, 1 oz ; mix. 

No. 3. Camphor, 1 drachm, anise, 3 drachms, tincture of 
opium, 1 oz,, powdered extract of licorice, 3 drachms, flax- 
seed meal, 1 ounce ; mix. 

ASTRINGENT AND CORDIAL. 

No. 1. Opium, 12 grains, camphor, 1-2 drachm, catechu, 
1 dr. ; mix. 

No. 2. Opium, 10 grains, camphor, 1 drachm, ginger, 2 
drs., castile soap, 2 drachms, anise, 3 drs., licorice, 2 
drachms; mix. 



50 HOW TO BREAK, RTDE AND DRIVE A HORRE. 

ALTERATIVE ANE LAXATIVE BALLS. 

No. 1. Linseed meal, 1 ounce, aloes, 1-2 ounce, castile 
soap, 1-2 ounce; mix. 

No. 2. Ginger, 1 drachm, bar soap, 3 drachms, Barbadoes 
aloes pulverized, G drachms, flaxseed meal, 1 ounce. 

TONIC BALL. 

Ginger, 2 drachms, gentian, 1 drachm, Peruvian bark, 1-2 
ounce, fenugreek, 1-4 oz. ; mix and form a ball. 

DIURETICS. 

Take of balsam copaiba, 2 ozs., sweet spirits of niter, 3 
ounces, spirits of turpentine, 2 ozs., oil of juniper, 2 ozs., 
tincture of camphor, 2 ozs. ; mix; shake the bottle before 
pouring the medicine; dose for an adult horse, two table- 
spoonfuls in a pint of milk, repeated every four to six hour3 
if necessary. This is a reliable preparation for kidney diffi- 
culties. 

COUGH MIXTURES. 

No. 1. Oil of tar, given as directed for the treatment of 
heaves, is one of the best remedies for nearly all coughs. 

No. 2. Take of alcohol, 1-2 pint, balsam of fir, 2 ounces; 
mix well, and add all the tar it will cut. Shake well before 
using. Dose from one to two leaspoonfuls two or three 
times a day. 

FARCY. 

Nitrate of potash, 4 ozs., black antimony, 2 ozs., sulphite 
of soda, 1 oz., elecampane, 2 ozs.; mix; dose, one table- 
spoonful once or twice a day. 

NASAL GLEET. 

Copperas, 2 ozs., pulverized gentian, 3 ozs., elecampane, 1 
oz., linseed meal, 3 ozs.; mix, and give from 1-2 to 1 table- 
spoonful twice a day. 

No. 2. Aloes, 6 ozs., pulverized nux vomica, 3 drachms, 
flaxseed meal, 4 ozs., make into eight powders and give one 
or two each day. 

CRACKED HEELS. 

Tar, 8 ozs., bees- wax, 1 oz., rosin, 1 oz., alum, 1 oz., tallow, 
1 oz., sulphate of iron, 1 oz., carbolic acid, 1 drachm; mix, 
and boil over a slow fire. Skim off* the filth, and add 2 ozs. 
of the scrapings of sweet elder. 

THRUSH. 

No. 1. Wash the feet well with castile soap and water, and 
sprinkle a small quantity of pulverized blue vitriol in the cleft, 
and then fill up all the cavities with cotton and press it in so 
as to keep out all dirt, and repeat as often as necessary until 
the cure is complete. 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 51 

No. 2. Blue vitriol and copperas, of each one ounce, burnt 
alum, 2 ozs., white vitriol, 1-4 oz. ; mix. 

WATER FARCY. 

No. 1. Saltpeter, 2 ozs., copperas, 2 ozs., ginger, 1 oz., 
fenugreek, 2 ozs., anise, 1-2 oz., gentian, 1 oz. ; mix and divide 
into eight powders; give two or three each day. 

No. 2. Gentian, 1 oz., ginger 1-2 oz., anise, loz., elecam- 
pane, 2 ozs., blue vitriol, 1 oz., flaxseed meal, 2 ozs., salt- 
peter, 2 ozs. ; mix, aud divide into eight powders. Moderate 
daily exercise and rubbing the limbs are useful. 

HEALING PREPARATIONS. 

No. 1. Carbolic acid, 1 oz., soft water, 2 pts. ; mix. 

No. 2. White vitriol, 1 oz., soft water, 2 pts.; mix. 

No. 3. Pulverized camphor, 1 drachm, prepared chalk, 6 
drachms, burnt alum, 4 drachms; mix. Sprinkle over the 
sore. 

No. 4. Tincture of opium, 1 oz., tannin, 1 drachm; mix 
and shake well before using. Excellent for galls of collar, 
saddle, or in fact for any purpose requiring a healing astrin- 
gent. 

FOR GALLED BACK OR SHOULDERS. 

Tincture of arnica, 1 oz., vinegar, 6 ozs., brandy, 4 ozs., 
sal ammoniac, 2 ozs., soft water, 1 pt. ; mix, and bathe with 
it often. 

FOR UNHEALTHY ULCERS. 

Nitric acid, 1 oz., blue vitriol, 3 ozs., soft water, fifteen ozs. 

FOR FRESH WOUNDS. 

Copperas, 2 drachms, white vitriol, 3 drachms, gunpowder, 
2 drachms, boiling soft water, 2 qrts. ; mix; when cool it is 
ready for use. 

HEALING MIXTURE. 

Cosmoline, 5 ozs., carbolic acid, 1 drachm; mix. This is 
one of the very best of mixtures for any sore, especially such 
cases as are inclined not to heal readily. 

TO CURE MANGE. 

Oil tar, 1 oz., lac sulphur, 1 1-2 ozs., whale oil, 2 ozs.; 
mix. Rub a little on the skin wherever the disease appears, 
and continue daily for a week, and then wash off with castile 
soap and warm water. 

HEALING MIXTURE FOR CUTS. 

Balsam copaiba, 2 ozs., tincture of myrrh, 3 ozs. ; mix. 
This is a good healing mixture. 

SORE LIPS. 

The lips become sore frequently at the angles of the mouth 



52 HOW TO BREAK, BIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

from bruising with the bit. They can be cured by applying 
the following mixture: 

Tincture of myrrh, 2 ozs., tincture of aloes, 1 oz., and tinc- 
ture of opium, 1-2 oz. ; mix and apply three or four times a 
day. 

FOR SORE MOUTH AND LIPS. 

Borax, 1 oz., tannin, 1-4 oz., glycerine, 8 ozs.; mix and, 
apply two or three times a day with a swab. 

FOR SPAVINS, ETC. 

Hog's lard and spirits of turpentine; mix, and place in the 
hot sunshine for four or five days. Apply four or five times 
a week. 

EYE-WATER. 

White vitriol and saltpeter, of each one scruple, pure soft 
water, 8 ozs. ; mix. This should be applied to the inflamed 
lids 3 or 4 times a day, .and if the inflammation does not 
lessen in 1 or 2 days, it may be injected directly into the eye. 

The writer ha3 used this for his own eyes, reduced half 
with water and dropped directly into the eye, which would 
cause the eye to smart considerably for about five minutes, 
when he would bathe the eye with cold water for a few min- 
utes, and by repeating this three or four times a day it has 
given the very best of satisfaction. 

It does nicely many times to just close the eye and bathe 
the outside freely. 

FOR POLL EVIL, FISTULA, OR ANY INDOLENT ULCER. 

Fill the sore to the bottom with ashes from burnt corn- 
cobs; repeat two or three times, if necessary, until a cure is 
effected. 

FOR COLIC. 

Take of gum myrrh, 1 oz., gum camphor, 1 oz., powdered 
gum guaiac, 1 oz., cayenne, 1 oz., sassafras bark, powdered, 
1 oz., spirits turpentine, 1 oz., oil origanum, 1-4 oz., oil hem- 
lock, 1-2 oz., pulverized opium, 1-2 oz., strongest alcohol, 2 
qrts. ; mix ail together and shake often for eight or ten days 
and filter or strain through flannel. Dose from 1 to 3 table- 
spoonfuls, according to the severity of the case, given in a 
pint of milk. 

We never have known the above remedy to fail of giving 
relief when given for colic in horses. In many cases where 
it has been used it has given immediate relief when various 
other remedies had failed of giving any relief. 

It makes one of the very best of Pain Killers for family 
use, and we advise all to keep it on hand. 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 53 
FOR FLESH WOUNDS. 

To prevent inflammation or tendency to slougbiug or mor- 
tification. Take 1 pound saltpeter, 2 gallons water, 3 pints 
proof spirits; mix, and inject into the wound with a syringe 
three times a day until it heals. In treating deep wound3, or 
of a dangerous character, especially if the animal is inclined 
to be fat, give a dose of physic, feed bran, carrots, etc. No 
grain should be fed, grass is more desirable than hay. If 
grass is fed freely, physic is not necessary. 

FOR REMOVING ENLARGEMENTS, ETC. 

Oil spike, 1 oz., camphor, 1 oz., oil origanum, 2 ozs., oil 
amber, 1 oz., spirits turpentine, 2 ozs. Rub on the mixture 
thoroughly two or three times a week. 

FOR BRUISES, CUTS, ETC., ON HORSE OR MAN. 

Tincture arnica, 1 oz., sassafras oil, 1-2 oz., laudanum, 1 
oz. ; mix. Shake wwll before using. Bandage lightly, and 
keep wet with the mixture. 

QUARTER CRACK. 

The best way to cure quarter crack is to open the heel on 
that side between bar and frog, cutting down pretty well 
(not sufficient to cause bleeding), until the quarter will give 
freely; then put on a shoe that will expand the heel. It is 
only necessary in this case that the inner heel should be open- 
ed or spread, as the hoof is simply too small for the foot; if 
this is properly done the point is directly reached. Some 
recommend, in addition to this, burning with a hot iron a 
crease across at the upper edge of hoof. If this is done prop- 
erly the hoof will not split any more. The hoof may now be 
more rapidly grown if desired. Opening the foot and the 
shoe is the point of success. 

QUITTOR. 

Corrosive sublimate, 1-4 oz., muriatic acid 20 drops, soft 
water 2 ozs. ; mix the two last and shake well, then add the 
first. 

Inject a little with a glass syringe one or two times, being 
careful to inject to the bottom. Warm poultices generally 
work well, used for several days. 

BOTS. 

All horses which run out to grass are quite sure to have 
bots in their stomachs, and as there is so much misconcep- 
tion about bots and their destructiveness to horses, we copy 
the, result of a series of experiments with bots three-fourths 
grown, 

When immersed in rum, they live 26 hours; decoction of 
tobacco, 11 hours; strong oil of vitriol, 2 hours IS minutes; 



54 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

essential oil of mint, 2 hours 5 minutes. Were immersed 
without apparent injury, in spirits of camphor, 10 hours; fish 
oil, 49 hours; tincture aloes, 10 hours; in brine, 10 hours; so- 
lution indigo, 10 hours. A number of small bots, with one 
that was full grown, were immersed in a strong solution of 
corrosive sublimate, one of the most powerful poisons; the 
small ones died in one hour, but the full-grown one was taken 
out of the solution, six hours after its immersion, apparently 
unhurt. 

It will be seen by the above experiments that no medicine 
can be given which will effect the bot that will not destroy 
the coating of the stomach, and injure or kill the horse. No 
veterinary surgeon can tell the symptoms of bots from colic. 
In fact, there is but little doubt that ninety-nine out of every 
one hundred cases of belly-ache, is no more nor less than colic 
and notbots, and should be treated as we have already directed 
in the treatment of colic. 

TO GROW HAIR. 

Mix sweet oil, 1 pint, sulphur, 3 ozs. Shake well, and rub 
well into the dock twice a week. 

FOR WORMS. 

Calomel, 1 drachm, tartar emetic, 1-2 drachm, linseed 
meal, 1 oz,, fenugreek, 1 oz. Mix and. give in feed at night, 
and repeat the dose for two or three times, and follow with 
1 1-2 pints of linseed oil about 6 hours after the last powder 
has been given. 

GREASE HEEL. 

Chloride of zinc, 1 1-2 drachm, water, 10 ozs., glycerine, 8 
ozs. ; mix. If there is much discharge, apply a poultice for 
several hours, followed by application of the above after 
cleansing well with soft water and castile soap. The follow- 
ing powders should be given at the same time in the feed, 
every night for a week or two: Bicarbonate of soda, 1 oz., 
arsenic, 1 drachm, iodide of iron, 1-2 oz., fenugreek, 2 ozs., 
ginger, 2 ozs., elecampane, 1 oz. ; mix thoroughly, and divide 
into 12 powders. 

FOR DISTEMPER. 

Hops, 2 ounces, carbolic acid 30 drops, boiling water 2 
gallons. Mix the hops and carbolic acid with the boiling 
water and compel the animal to inhale the steam for 15 or 20 
minutes at a time and repeat three times a day. Apply a 
strong mustard paste to the throat, and place a warm poul- 
tice over the paste. Feed warm mashes and boiled vege- 
tables; keep stable comfortably warm and the air pure. 
Give the following powders once a day. Take powdered 
Peruvian bark, 2 ounces, powdered gentian, 1 ounce, pow- 
dered copperas, 1 ounce ; mix and divide into 8 powders. . 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 55 
THRUSH, 

Take white vitriol, 2 ounces, soft water, 8 ounces. Mix, 
and apply to the diseased surface, after the ragged parts 
have been cut away and thoroughly cleansed. Pack the 
cavities with cotton batting, so as to keep out all dirt. 

FOB RINGWORM. 

Apply mercurial ointment 3 or 4 times a week. 

FOR BRITTLE AND CONTRACTED HOOFS. 

Take of castor oil, Barbadoes tar and soft soap, equal 
parts of each, melt all together, and stir while cooling, and 
apply a little to the hoof 3ov 4 times a week. 

MEDICINES USED FOR THE HOUSE. 



We will give something of a history of the more important 
drugs used for the treatment of the' diseases of the horse, 
with their effects and uses. 

Acids. These nearly all have a sour taste, and are derived 
from the vegetable, mineral and animal kingdoms. The 
number of acids used in medicines is small; among the most 
important of these are acetic acid, muriatic acid, nitric acid, 
sulphuric acid, tannic acid, gallic acid, carbolic acid, arsen- 
ious acid, phosphoric acid, tartaric acid. 

Acetic Acid. When diluted with seven parts of water it is 
about the strength of ordinary vinegar. It is produced from 
the purification of pyroligneous acid. 

Use. It is used by some with good results for sprains, 
and bruises, and for the destruction of the poison of insects, 
ty adding to six ounces of the acid 1-4 ounce tincture of 
opium and two ounces of camphor. 

Muriatic Acid. This acid is obtained by the action of 
sulphuric acid on common salt. When pure it is a trans- 
parent colorless liquid ; but the commercial acid has a yellow- 
ish color. 

Muriatic acid is a good tonic in debilitating diseases of the 
horse, and is refrigerant and antiseptic. 

Dose. Half to one fluid drachm may be given largely 
diluted with cold water, and repeated two to four times a 
day. 

Externally, it may be used for sores in the feet, by pour- 
ing a few drops in the sores or nail-holes. Eight or ten 
drops may be advantageously used for poll-evil or quittor by 
being poured directly into the fistulous opening. 



5G HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

It it. ay be used for various affections of the skiu by dilut- 
ing with glycerine, and washing off in a short time if used 
strong. 

Carbolic Acid, This important mediciue is obtained 
from coal-tar oil. Its smell resembles that of creosote. 

Uses. It is used for various purposes, such as a disinfect- 
ant in stables, where animals have distempers, fevers, etc., 
by washing the stalls, floors and ceilings with water which 
contains a small quantity of the acid; also used with grati- 
fying results for unhealthy wounds and sores, by applying a 
solution of the following strength : Carbolic acid, 1 oz. ; 
fresh soft water, 6 pints. . This prevents putrefaction, and 
will cause the wound to be more healthy and heal sooner. 
Carbolic acid is also used for destroying woodticks, lice, and 
all kinds of parasites, and is quite effective in preventing 
the bot-fly from depositing her eggs when those parts which 
are commonly chosen by the bot-fly are washed with a solu- 
tion double the strength given above. 

Nitric Acid. (Called also Aqua Fortis.) This is also a 
valuable tonic when properly given. It is extremely sour 
and corrosive, and should be guarded by the same caution as 
in giving the sulphuric acid. 

Dose. It may be given in doses of 5 to 25 drops, largely 
diluted with water. 

Sulphuric Acid (called also oil of Vitriol;. This acid is 
obtained by burning sulphur, mixed with one-eighth of its 
weight of niter over a stratum of water contained in a 
chamber lined with sheet-lead. 

Uses. Many consider this acid to be preferable to any other 
of the acids for internal use, in debility of digestive organs, 
general weakness, and as a refrigerant. 

Externally, it is used similarly to muriatic acid. When it 
is desired to use it as a caustic it should be mixed with dry 
towdered white vitriol sufficient to make it of a pasty con- 
sistence, so it can be confined to the location which it is de- 
sired to cauterize. 

This acid, as well as nitric or muriatic acid is a powerful 
irritating poison when given into the stomach undiluted; 
and persons should bear in mind that when these acids are 
given that they should be largely diluted with water and 
thoroughly mixed before administering. 

Dose of Sulphuric acid is about 10 to 40 drops, largely 
diluted with water. 

Tannic Acid. (Called also Tannin.) This is produced 
from nut-galls, oak-bark, etc. It is uncrystallizable, white 
or slightly yellowish, with a strong astringent taste, inodor- 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 57 

ous, soluble in water, but not very soluble in alcohol or 
ether, and insoluble in most oils. 

Tannic acid precipitates solutions of starch, albumen and 
gluten, and forms with gelatine an insoluble compound, 
which is the basis of leather. 

Uses. It is valuable, mixed with water, as a wash for run* 
ning sores and ulcers, and is also excellent for diarrhoea, and 
may be given for any disease where this class of medicines is 
indicated. It will, in many cases of bleeding sores, stop the 
bleeding if applied locally. It is sometimes used as an eye- 
wash with excellent success, by applying a solution of the 
following strength: Tafnnic acid, 1-4 ounce; cold water, I 
quart. As it is harmless and safe to use, we would recom- 
mend it as an eye-wash. 

Jjose. For diarrhoea the dose should be from 1-2 to 1 
drachm. 

Aconite. (Wolf's-bane— Monk's-hood.) An active poisou, 
which grows abundantly in the forest3 of Germany, France 
and Switzerland. It is also cultivated in the gardens of Eu- 
rope, and has been introduced into this country as an orna- 
mental flower. All parls are poison. The leaves and roots 
are used. A tincture made from the root is much more 
active than from the leaves. 

Tincture of Aconite Boot— This is one of the most power- 
ful and successful sedatives which is in use. It is one of the 
best medicines we have for the successful treatment of several 
of the diseases of the horse, when properly used, and has, to a 
certain extent, done away with bleeding and physicking, the 
former of which has been, in the past, so indiscriminately 
and dangerously used. It is not only sedative, but it is an 
anodyne, diaphoretic and antiphlogistic. It controls fever, 
reduces inflammation, and allays pain. In fact, we have no 
drug which will so well control the circulation and action of 
the heart as aconite. 

Medical Uses— The effects of remedial doses are felt in 
20 or 30 minutes, and are at their height in an hour or two, 
and continue with little abatement from 3 to 5 hours. We 
have no single drug which is used with such gratifying re- 
sults in many cases, such as lung fever, or, in fact, in flamma- 
tion of any part of the body, colic from eating green food, 
and founder. 

Caution, In overdoses this valuable drug is an active 
poison, therefore, we would caution all who use it about 
giving too large quantities, as prostration and perhaps 
death would be the result. Never give more than 6 or 6 
doses, if 25 drops are given at each dose, nor more than 7 or 
8, if 20 drops are given at each dose. The dose may vary 



from 10 to 45 drops, but for most purposes should be about 
25 drops. 

Aloes. Are of several varieties: Cape, Barbadoes and 
Socotrine, and is the condensed juice of the leaves of a plant. 
Given by some as a purgative or cathartic for horses; others 
consider it bad practice to use it much. Dose, should, for 
ordinary purposes, be from 1-2 to 1 ounce. It is generally 
best to combine with it fenugreek, ginger or canella. 

Antimony, exists in its natural state in France and Ger- 
many. The preparations of antimony which are used for the 
horse most, are 1st, sidphnret of antimony, also commonly 
called black antimony. This is' by many considered a re- 
markable remedy for the horse, for many purposes, but espe- 
cially to make the horse shine, and to have the appearance 
of being quite fat. 2d. Tartrate of antimony and Potassa, 
commonly called tartar emetic, has been in great repute in 
the treatment of diseases of the chest; but is now con- 
sidered of but little value in these diseases. 

Anise Seed. Are obtained from the anise plant, which is 
a native of Egypt, bu-t has been introduced into the south 
of Europe, and is cultivated in various parts of that country, 
and is cultivated occasionally in the gardens of this country. 
Uses. It is a grateful aromatic carminative, and is 
supposed to have the property of increasing the secretion of 
milk. It is used for flatulent' colic, indigestion, loss of appe- 
tite, etc. It is an excellent remedy when combined with 
other medicines for various kinds of condition powders. 

ose. From 1-2 to two ounces, and may be repeated three 
times a day. 

Aqua Ammonia. (Called also Hartshorn.) This medicine 
is very valuable for both internal and external use. It is a dif- 
fusible stimulant, antispasmodic and antacid. It is used ex- 
ternally with olive oil, and in various mixtures as a counter- 
irritant. Used as an antidote for bites of poisonous serpents. 
Given with good results for flatulent colic in doses of two to 
three drachms given with milk as directed below for car- 
bonate of ammonia. 

Carbonate of Ammonia. This is a very valuable medicine 
for debility and prostration from lung fever, bronchitis, in- 
fluenza or any disease causing great weakness. Its eflects 
are similar to those of aqua ammonia given above. 

Dose. One to three drachms, which maybe repeated three 
times a day, and should be given in milk or cold gruel, so as 
to protect the mucous membranes of the throat and stomach. 

Aksenic. This is an active poison in large doses, but 
when given in proper doses is an excellent tonic, improving 
the general condition of the horc'e. .It should be given in a 



RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 59 

large bulk of cut feed, so as to protect the stomach. From 
2 to 5 grains may be given in the 24 hours, and should be 
continued for about two weeks, when the medicine should be 
stopped for one or two weeks, and then it may be given agaiu 
as before. Some consider it asure cure for heaves. 

Assafoztida. A gum-resin obtained from a plant of Per- 
sia by making incisions into the living root, and the juice 
which exudes is collected and dried in the sun. It has a pe- 
culiar odor, similar to that of onions. 
I Uses. It is antispasmodic, expectorant, and a moderate 
stimulant and laxative. It is given as a vermifuge and for 
loss of appetite, also used for heaves in connection with cam- 
phor. (See treatment of heaves.) 

Dose. One to three drachms, and if the stimulant eflect is 
wanted give from one to two ounces of the tincture. 

Blue Vitriol. This is an excellent medicine when given 
internally, as a tonic to build up the system. Given for 
glanders, farcy, and various other diseases requiring tonic 
and alterative medicine, and should be combined with gin- 
ger, fenugreek or gentian. Externally blue vitriol is used 
with good results as a caustic for proud-flesh by touching 
the parts with a piece of the crystal. It is also excellent lor 
many wounds which have no proud-flesh by applying it in 
solution, 6 to 12 grains to each ounce of soft water. 

Dose. It may be given in doses from 1-2 to 2 drachms, 
and given twice a day. 

Camphor. A peculiar concrete substance derived from a 
plant in China and Japan. It is recommended for nervous 
excitement, heaves, and is used in many cough mixtures. It 
is a favorite household remedy, and used externally to a 
large extent. 

Dose. Camphor may be given in doses varying fron 1-2 to 
2 drs. Camphor gum, 1 oz., and sweet oil 8 ozs., mixed, 
makes a very good external remedy for various purposes. 

Cantharides. (Spanish Flies.) This remedy is produced 
by collecting the beetle commonly called Spanish Flies. 

These insects are of a beautiful, shining, golden green 
color, and usually make their appearance upon the trees of 
Spain, Italy, and the south of France in the months of May 
and June, when they are collected by placing linen cloths 
under the trees on which they have lodged through the night 
and by shaking the tree early in the morning, while they are 
torpid from the cold of the night, and consequently let go 
their hold easily. 

They ar« then deprived of life by the vapor from boiling 
vinegar, and then dried in the sun, or in rooms heated by 
stoves. 



60 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

Uses. Internally, cantharides are a powerful stimulant 
with a peculiar direction to the urinary organs, and in mod- 
erate doses it sometimes acts as a diuretic. Used with good 
results for glanders and farcy. 

The principal use of the cantharides is as a blister by mix- 
rug it with lard. 

Pose. Spanish Flies may be given in .doses varying from 
3 to 7 grains, given only once a day. 

Castor Oil. This is the expressed oil of the seeds of the 
castor oil plant, which is now cultivated largely in this coun- 
try throughout many of the Southern and Western States. 

Use. This oil is very useful and safe for common use in 
the human family, but is considered unfit for the horse, as it 
sometimes causes inflammation of the coats of the bowels 
without relief from the purging. 

(Linseed Oil is considered as safe and efficient for the horse 
as castor oil is for man. See Linseed Oil.) 

Dose. When it is thought best to give castor oil, or in the 
absence of the linseed oil, it may be given in doses varying 
from 3-4 to 1 1-4 pints. 

Catechu. An extract prepared from the wood of Acacia 
Catechu and found mo3t abundant in the East Indies. It is a 
small tree, seldom growing more than twelve feet in height, 
with the trunk about one foot in diameter. 

Use. An astringent which will bind the bowels in diarrhoea 
and is combined with good results with opium and prepared 
chalk for diarrhoea. 

Dose. One to three drachms. 

Prepared Chalk. (Creta Prasparata.) This is the only 
form in which chalk is used in medicine and is an excellent 
antacid ; is one of the best antidotes for oxalic acid. It is 
used with good results for acidity of the stomach and for 
diarrhoea, etc. 

Dose. One to two ounces. 

Camomile Flowers. This is a native of Europe, and 
grows wild in all the temperate parts of that continent, and 
is also largely cultivated. 

Use. A very mild tonic, and quite useful when combined 
with other medicines of this class. 

Dose. It may be given in doses varying from one-half to 
two ounces. 

Charcoal. This may be given with good results powdered 
for chronic diarrhoea, dysentery and debilitated stomach. 

Dose. Half an ounce to one ounce, and it may be given 
suspended in gruel. It may be used with good results ex- 
ternally when applied to badly smelling wounds. 

Chloride of Lime. This compound was originally pre- 



HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 61 

pared for a bleaching agent nearly a century ago, and has 
Hince been found to have valuable properties as a disinfectant. 
It is a dry, or but slightly moist, grayish white, pulverulent 
substance^ with an odor similar to that of chlorine. 

Uses. Chloride of lime is a disinfectant, and from its 
deodorizing and antiseptic properties makes an excellent 
stimulant to unhealthy ulcers, applied in solution, also for 
cutaneous eruptions, etc. Its principal use is as a disinfect- 
ant in stables occupied by glandered and other sickly horses, 
and may be sprinkled on the floor every morning, or may be 
suspended in the stable in a box which has several holes cut 
into it. 

Dose. When it is thought best to give it internally, 1 to 3 
drachms may be given at a dose, in water. 

Chloroform. Is a colorless, volatile liquid, having a bland 
ethereal odor and sweetish taste. 

Uses. It is an excellent stimulant for horses when having 
a chill, from cold or in congestion, and is sometimes given to 
quiet pain in colic and other painful diseases. It is used 
mostly in liniments, and sometimes for inhalation. One 
ounce of chloroform and three ounces of olive oil well mixed 
makes an excellent liniment for external use. When chloro- 
form is given to the horse by inhalation, he should be well 
secured so as to prevent his doing any damage, as it some- 
times makes the horse perfectly wild and uncontrollable. When 
any operation of any considerable extent is to be performed it 
is best to tie the horse down, and then administer the chloro- 
form by pouring about an ounce of chloroform on a sponge, 
and holding the sponge to one nostril and covering the nose 
loosely with a large towel; but care should be taken to allow 
the horse pure air, also to breathe with the fumes of the 
chloroform. Usually two to four ounces is sufficient to pro- 
duce its effects when inhaled. 

Dose. One to two drachms well diluted with weak spirits. 

Croton Oil. This is a very powerful cathartic, and dan- 
gerous if improperly used. But as a "last resort" many 
times works very well. 

Dose is usually from ten to fifteen drops. 

Elecampane. This is one of the best medicines in use for 
lung affections, and should enter largely into all mixtures for 
this class of diseases. It is also an agreeable aromatic, and 
should form a part of all Condition Powders. 

Epsom Salts. (Sulphate of Magnesia.) This medicine, 
so well known in every household, is used with good results 
as a febrifuge, and is often given as a purgative. It is not 
only cheap, but it is very good for several diseases, and forma 
a part of various condition powders. 



62 HOW TO BREAK, RIDE AND DRIVE A HORSE. 

Dose. 1-2 to 1 pound, with one ounce of ginger dissolved 
in as large quantity of cold water as can be given the horse 
conveniently, and also allowing the horse to drink, if he will, 
after the salts have been given, for the reason that they will 
be much more efficient if largely diluted. 

Ergot. This is produced from diseased rye, and is of great 
value in the foaling season, as it is the most effectual remedy 
known for increasing the action of the uterus, when there is 
not sufficient contraction. Great care should be taken when 
it is given that nothing prevents delivery, only deficient 
action of the uterus. It should not be used by the non-pro- 
fessional, as they would be more likely to do harm with it 
than good; in fact, the cases demanding its use are very raro, 
but, as we said before, where its use is really called for noth- 
ing will act as well. 

Dose. Of the powder, 1-4 to 3-4 ounce. Of the tincture, 
one to two fluid ounces may be given. 

Ether. (Sulphuric Ether.) This is a very valuable rem- 
edy, and is used with excellent results for colic, and for vari- 
ous purposes is a good antispasmodic. Given with tincture 
of opium it works admirably for colic. 

Dose. One to two fluid ounces. 

Euphorbiu.Mv This is the concrete resinous juice of a 
plant growing in Africa and in other parts of the world. 

Use. Owing to the severity of its action, its internal use 
has been entirely abandoned, and it is now only used exter- 
nally, and it is so severe that it is but very little used now 
externally. 

Male Fern. The root of a plant growing in South Africa. 
Is said to be very valuable for ridding animals of worms. 

Dose. It may be given to the horse in doses of one-half to 
one pound of the powdered root, and followed with a purga- 
tive the next day. 

Fenugreek. An annual plant growing spontaneously in 
Southern Europe. It has a peculiar odor which is quite 
agreeable. The seeds ground is the portion used, and they 
enter largely into nearly all the condition powders which 
are put up and sold through the country. 

Dose, 1-4 to 1 ounce. 

Nut Galls. A morbid excrescence upon the oak-tree re- 
sulting from holes being made by an insect in the bark. 

Uses. It is a powerful astringent, and is used to bind the 
bowels when affected with diarrhoea or dysentery, and used for 
applying to the greasy heels of horses. 

Dose. One to three drachms. 

[the end.] 



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